Edible Sugar Lace 101: Plus, Fun Sugar Lace Flowers and Leaves

hi Julie Asha recipes for a sweet life I’ve been having a lot of fun lately working with the sugarveil product sugarveil is basically a material used to make edible cake glaze traditionally to make edible cake lace it’s comprised of sugar egg whites xantham gum and a few other things and it makes this incredibly versatile material that stretches yet is extremely delicate and can be molded and shaped into all sorts of things I use it extensively in my collaboration video which you should go check out where I make these enameled cookie boxes today though I’m going to give you a double feature if you will kind of a primer on how to use sugarveil we’re going to start by talking about how to make a single color lace here’s a beautiful lace made with our laces mat and you can see how flexible it is wouldn’t it make great fabric or jewelry or or a dress and I’m also going to show you how to make a dual tone lace using their grasses mat and we’re going to use this in a much less conventional way than just making a strip of lace I’m actually going to cut it and shape it into these really fun and beautiful flowers and leaves with lots of color and variation so before we get started just a couple words on sugar veil sugar veil is the original edible lace product it came about about twelve years ago there have been a number of knock-offs since then all of the products behave somewhat differently so all the instructions for making lace that you’re about to see are very particular to this this product so just bear that in mind as we go through the rest of the video so let’s talk about the primary tools you’ll need for making both single colored lace and dual lace of course we need sugar veil mats we’re working with their lace mat for the single color lace we’ll be working with our grasses mat for a dual color lace which will go into some of the flowers and leaves we’re making later of course you need corn starch and a brush to lightly dust the mats to keep the sugar veil mixture from sticking as it sets you’ll need sugar veil itself I’ve got 2/3 of a cup of it here to 1/3 a cup of water these are the ratios for their quick oven setting method rather than letting the lace dry overnight we’re going to quick set it in the oven so that we can pull it more immediately which is ultra convenient you’ll also need a couple of other sugarveil tools we’ve got this nifty spreader which is designed for spreading the mix sugarveil mixture into the mats and getting a nice thin layer and there Phin confectioner’s fin tool which is used for it getting a nice clean edge I use this sometimes more often I use it to scrape off and clean off the spreader we’ll also need a damp cloth this might look like an unassuming unimportant tool but it’s a really critical one for wiping down a lace once it comes out of the oven to ensure that there’s no film covering any of the holes that you want to open and then lastly I’ve got food coloring for coloring the sugarveil material shimmervale recommends a dry powdered color if you want really intense colors in the lace but I found that my liquid gel Chef master coloring the same stuff I used for royal icing works rather well in the medium to dark range of colors so we’ll be working with that today as we work with the grass’s matte okay we’re back to mix the sugar veil mixture so I’ve got two thirds a cup of sugar veil in there and 2/3 a cup of just room temperature tap water and I’m going to give them a quick whisk about 30 seconds worth of whisking just to get the ingredients combined and I do follow the sugar veil mixing instructions they’ve got detailed instructions on their website rather explicitly because I find they’re very very good and very exact so once we’ve got that roughly together you’ll still see if you lumps in it that’s typical that will that will go away as we beat it now it’s looking kind of a creamy kind of yellow white with it as well and you’ll notice the big color changes we mix it now for the quick setting method they recommend whipping for exactly four minutes I’m setting my timer and to use the paddle attachment so you don’t pump in too much air we want to do this also on medium speed if you whip it on high speed with a whip attachment you’ll incorporate much more air and get a much more aerated product one that’s more prone to breaking with more bubbles in it and we don’t want that so I’m going to run this between 6 and 8 on my KitchenAid but 7 for 4 minutes you might give it a scrape down in between and just watch the color change it’ll go from kind of this murky yellow to very white

four minutes exactly and you’ll notice how very bright white it is and it’s gone from that kind of soupy curdled kind of texture to something very viscous yet still pourable sugarveil recommends and i also recommend that you use this material as soon as it reaches the state if it sits for an hour or more you’re definitely going to want to re whip it with the same paddle attachment for a minute or two to restore it to this white state what will happen is it will get creamy yellow and kind of more bubbly just much more difficult to spread into the mat without introducing bubbles I’ve also stored this overnight and it thickens considerably overnight so I do prefer to use it almost immediately we need to prepare our mat so we are preparing it by dusting it with cornstarch this will just keep the lace from or help keep the lace from sticking sometimes the lace can still stick sugarveil is very humidity sensitive and this drying process is also very humidity sensitive so if you’re drawing on a dry day you may have to dry the lace in the oven less time before you pull it from the mat whereas if you’re drawing on a humid day it will stay tacky longer and you may need to dry it even longer I’ve got a lot of cornstarch in there I’d like to get it into all the crevices initially but then I want to brush out or shake out the excess because you don’t want an accumulation appearing in the lace in any one spot okay to spread a very little bit goes quite a long way a few tablespoons will probably fill this whole mat it’s very very delicate lace but I usually done the last start with an ample tablespoon about at the top and also one kind of Midway just to make sure I make the whole length of the lace with material and we may need to add some in areas as we go and subtract some most certainly I’m just going to hold down this lace I find that since I cut the mat in half it tends to shift a little bit more than it might otherwise so I want to give it a quick spread make sure I get good coverage all the way down I’ve got a lot in certain areas as you can see here and very little in these areas so the key thing with sugarveil is not just to spread in one direction but rather spread in multiple directions to make sure you get the material into all of the openings evenly I’m looking very closely to see if there any small pores anywhere as well and if they are I’m just you know spreading over those areas to make sure they get filled if they don’t those will be gaps in the lace that could potentially break when we pull it from the mold so I’d like to do one final pass with the blade completely clean not just cleaning it with a thin tool I just feel like this gives a better end result and I’m holding the blade also I should note at a low angle and this just makes sure that the material is really packed into those grooves as opposing it as opposed to holding it at a 90 degree angle where you might actually take material out of the grooves I think that looks pretty good at this point you could come in with a thin tool and just clean up your edge a little bit it’s got a little groove here that cleans up the edge but it’s not so necessary here we’re going to with a single color lace it’ll be more necessary with the dual color lace I am ready now to put this in the oven to quick set and as I said the setting time really does vary with the mat itself the depth of the mat the amount of material in it and also the ambient humidity I’m going to put it in for about eight and a half minutes okay I’m not sure if I mentioned what temperature this was drying at but it was about that’s the timer eight and a half minutes at 200 degrees Fahrenheit and what I’m looking for is for it to be dry to the touch which it is around the edges and it’s also dry to the touch it’s a little tacky in the center so I need to be careful about handling it there I might just start wiping around the edges to clean up the film here and let it sit a little bit before I hit the center because I might smudge it if it’s too moist in the center now I’ve got a damp cloth here that unassuming towel I talked about is really important because it cleans up all this film on the edge so that that doesn’t show up when you pull the lace you don’t want to see that so I’m not really digging into it I’m kind of just gently rubbing with the flat side of my cloth and it’s particularly important to do this around the outer edges because as I mentioned earlier they tend to dry faster they they are closer to the edges of the oven which are often hotter and so they tend to drive faster and there’s a possibility of them becoming more brittle so this damp cloth also introduces a little more moisture to keep them from you know the lace from completely drying out because you can over bake this over dry it and it’ll just crack so we’re trying to avoid that we’re trying to get it at just the right point you’ll know if it’s too tacky to wipe down because you’ll start pulling the lace out of the holes and once you start doing that you just want to stop and let it dry here a little bit longer before you wipe further I think a good amount of the film is gone if you’ve missed places it’s not the end of the

world because you can actually pop it out with your trusting needle so now is it ready to remove from the mat the key indicator is whether if you turn down a corner if it comes up easily without breaking and without stretching it should be rather rigid whoops I got a little break there but it seems to be almost ready so what I’m going to do is because this corners coming up nicely is inverted and begin the peeling process I’ve inverted onto parchment paper inverted onto almost any other thing it can’t get sticky and stick to it so do invert it onto parchment paper I roughed up the edge here because I tried to pull it and it was still a little damp so I put it back in the oven for a minute or two to dry it just a little bit further and I’m using my spreader tool now once again and for a different way to help hold down the lace is I gently pull back the mat so I just switched sides just so I could get a better view of the lace coming out and how it’s pulling is I didn’t have a good visibility but the lace is coming out of the mat rather nicely I’d like to pull gradually because it tends to be moister in the center and we don’t want to tear the lace as we get to a particularly moist part so it’s beginning to stretch here and de shape so I’m just going to let this sit a little bit upside down before I pull off through the middle because I don’t want to distort the lace I’m just going to finish the peeling process it was a little damp in the middle and stretching but with a little bit of additional drying time it’s easy enough to peel it away quite beautifully and then we’re back to the end that we started with okay and so as I pointed out I didn’t wipe down all together as thoroughly as I could in some areas you’ll see a little bit of film and some of these holes here but that’s not a big deal I’m going to be putting this on my enamel jewelry boxes in a future video and before I put it on I’m actually going to take my trusty needle and pop some of that out and I’ll look just like perfect now I’m not going to use this immediately on the boxes so what I want to do is make sure it gets stored on parchment paper in a large bag either three gallon baggie sizes are perfect for this size lace so that it doesn’t dry out or get too floppy if it’s really if it’s really humid it’ll get really moist if it’s really dry it can become brittle and crack and be no longer flexible you’ll see right now it’s quite flexible I can bend it into ribbons or bows or wrap it around a box okay onto the two-tone lace so just to color the sugarveil for a dual color lace I’ve already got the light a light green what you see in here in the matte drying in the oven so I’m mixing now a darker green color again just using my liquid gel food coloring I find that it work behaves pretty well even in relatively dark shades in this material so I just want to get this like a shade or two darker than like the light green that I started with so that it contrasts what’s in the matte already okay so the process with the two-tone lace is the same as with a single lace I’m just working with the grass’s matte and I’ve laid a light green in here it’s this is now dried actually about eight and a half minutes again you want to wipe down when it comes out of the oven to remove any film that’s covering the blue areas because that film will show up against the dark that we’re going to apply in the background later if you don’t wipe it off you want to apply the second coating of sugarveil when this is not tacky because if you spread over tacky material you’ll take it out of the grooves you want to make sure this is still pliable but not tacky usually a finger test will give you a good indication of whether you can spread over it without disrupting it I think it’s ready we’re just we’re just going to add the dark green over the top and again a little bit typically goes a long way but I’ll lay it down in two areas to make sure you get pretty good coverage across the whole mat and I may need to add or subtract as we go along it’s a little bit harder to get the dark green or the color that’s going on the back down uniformly because there no grooves for it to sink into so you’ll just have to use your judgement sometimes you’ll see a little unevenness in color you know what areas where it’s thin and thick and typically that hasn’t been a problem for me you’ll end up seeing more color when you pull it off the mat than you might you might think you would just on the basis of looking at the back of the mat so here for instance it looks thin here it looks heavy but that thin area actually does have some green film on it that will show when you peel it off the mat may be not quite enough but it definitely has some and as before I want to kind of wipe in all different directions with a low angle of the blade ideally holding it with two hands I feel like I’ve got a lot of extra on the blade here which I do so this is where the tool the thin tool comes in handy and clean that off and now in my final swipes I just want to get this a little more uniform looking so I don’t have I don’t have any big chunks of it anywhere I’m pressing

rather lightly but uniformly and I think that’s going to be good because ready to go in the oven it’s still a little lean there but I think that’s the best I can do and I think when we pull it it’ll be just fine okay it’s out of the oven I’m going to get an edge here and then try to invert this it’s again pretty dry to the touch in the middle so I think it’s ready to be pulled it’s also peeling away pretty easily from the edges wallah there it is finished lace okay so here it is all trimmed up I got rid of the rough edges somewhere a little dry but also they’re ragged and we’re not going to be cutting from those pieces so they’ll just get in the way later that’s a nice piece of lace and right now I could use it immediately or put it in a plastic baggie for storage okay so we’re going to start with the leaves I’ve got a two-tone lace that I did earlier using the grasses mat and these leaves are super simple I’m just going to cut from a good area of the lace I just cut out really with scissors regular old scissors I cut straight so just cutting little leaf type shapes like so they don’t have to be perfect and you might find you have better control with smaller scissors that’s fine too and then what I do to shape them is I just simply pinch the bottom when I’m working with sugarveil I always have a little bit of cornstarch and a little bit of water near me so if they get if they’re not sticky enough and they don’t stick together at the end I can dab them with a little bit of water whereas if they’re too sticky and they’re sticking to my hands I can just dab my hands and a little bit of cornstarch and get them to release from my fingers so that’s one leave I’d like to make little bundles of leaves I think they often look better we’ll be putting on these on cupcakes later and I think that looks pretty darn cool when we’ve got little leaf bundles together you also have the option of using decorative shears from the craft store to make more of a deck you know more of a convoluted edge to the leaf and here you want to cut in one direction then flip and cut back in the other direction so that the variegation is all facing the same direction and then just to form the leaf this is the tip of the leaf I just simply pinch it together like so and then if I want to put it together with another leave this is pretty sticky so I’m not needing to add any more water I just pinch them together so I’m going to do a really tiny leaf to add to that trio just using slightly smaller scissors here they’re a little more manageable the other thing to point out is I’m cutting along the grain if you will of this grasses mat so that the stripes are going along the length of the leaf I just think that looks too long gates the leaf I think it looks more lifelike if anything and you can see it just a really tiny leave and to add that to this bunch here I’ll just press it in I don’t think I need additional water today to hold them together because it is rather humid and then to set them aside to dry I do like to do this this one’s been drying as you’ll notice in my little hemisphere mold containers that’s one way to dry them if you don’t have a hemisphere mold container because they are rather expensive I use them for many different things you can also drape them over the edges of items so for instance I have a lot of styrofoam forms around for whatever reason so just setting them to rest and drape over the edge of something and putting a bend in them while they’re still moist will give them a lot of dimension then set these aside in a dry environment for them to fully set up if you’ve got a really humid day definitely air condition air condition your space to allow them to dry if you don’t have an air conditioner then I suggest doing these on a dry day so that they can dry in your normal ambient conditions once completely dry you want to contain them in an airtight container so that they don’t change shape and now I’m going to use the same grass as Matt to form these fun little flowers in fact I’m doing exactly this color combination the blue and purple again I start with the grasses Matt and do a two-tone coloration but instead of using light green and dark green as I use with the leaves I first laid the blue in and then I spread the purple behind it to create this particular effect and you can do it many different ways this for instance has yellow late in the grooves and then purple spread behind it this has pink in the grooves with purple spread behind it generally speaking it’s easier to and you’ll get a cleaner looking result if you spread the darker color behind a lighter color then here I’m using just a normal craft paper punch with a little fluted edge you

could also use a straightedge round okay so I like to feed the paper and upside down because the top tends to be drier than the bottom and also with the punch upside down so I can make sure that it’s completely within the space before I punch and then I just simply punch and out comes a piece and if the sugar veil isn’t too sticky I can easily slide it over without taking it out of the punch and re situate it and punch again you want to punch out about nine or ten of these for each flower that one’s a little wrinkled at the bottom but that’s okay because I’m going to be pinching the flower at the bottom so it’s not the end of the world as you go across the mat if you have ragged edges it didn’t pull well off the mat you’ll probably want to trim those first so you come in with a clean edge on the punch if you’re in the middle of forming flowers and you want to use the extra again remember to contain that in a plastic bag so that it doesn’t dry out so for the inner core you can fold it any which way you can put the color out or the pure purple side forward and in most cases I don’t I don’t think it matters but the next few petals because isn’t so visible it’s just the very central core the next few petals I’m going to put them in a decisive order so I’m just basically rolling this while it’s still flexible to create a central core again pinching it at the bottom this is pretty moist so I don’t need to add any of the additional water to get it to stick together if it weren’t so moist I dab a little bit of water on the end and then I probably immediately douse my fingers in cornstarch so that I could hand without sticking to my hand so here I just wrap it around this is much the way you’d make say a rose or something out of modeling chocolate or rolled fondant just kind of overlapping the petals and pinching at the bottom and the first couple I don’t give much Flair to I like them kind of standing straight up that’s just my preference but if you wanted to you can try to bend them back a little bit because the material still very pliable at this point I’m going to wrap one more in this direction with a purple facing towards the inside and now I’m going to swap directions and start putting the petals with the striped edge facing the inside I just think that gives a little more interest in a sense of depth and darkness to the interior of the flower I’m just adding over lapping the petals as we go and eventually as I come to the outside now I’ve got four or five down I’ll start turning them down like so and this one just to give you a point of references now maybe an inch and a half to two inches across these were cut with a one and a quarter inch these are about a one and a quarter inch petal so the larger the petal you cut the bigger the punch you use the bigger the flower you’ll end up with so you can adjust size by simply cutting smaller rounds I do like to form them in my silicone mold just let them dry in my silicone mold so rather than setting them on their sides right now they’re still quite soft and if I set them on this side they’ll just smush and lose all that dimension so if I set them in this mold or if you have small little paper cups that works well too they’ll and put them face down like so they’ll dry much more uniformly and that’s how all of these were dried so that completes a little flower tutorial so what I would do at this point again these are very prone to changes in humidity they can get very soft if they get exposed to too much moisture so I would take this whole piece so they retain their shape and slip it into another airtight container and leave that in a cool dry place until I want to use them and they have an infinite storage life if you store them properly if you’re interested in other applications of sugarveil I recommend you go over to my collaboration video or I show how to make what looks like an enameled cookie box I actually wrapped that single white lace piece around a round cookie to make an elaborate wedding gift if you will so please check that out til next video live sweetly Oh