Homebrewing Basics: All-Grain Brewing

so what is all grain brewing it’s basically taking multigrain like what you see here crushing it soak it in hot water turn it into sort of a cereal kind of like a high oatmeal right and you let it sit for a while and that process converts the starches in in these grains and to sugars which then later on in the brewing process the yeast will then consume and convert that sugar into alcohol it’s as simple as that so if you want to learn more about this keep watching now you can’t do all grain brewing without grain right so what you need to do is go out and get your grains for your recipes now for example I buy my my base malts my base multi grains by the 50-pound bag and I put them in buckets like like this one here and this bucket here has got a special lid on it but that I bought that’s got our little o-ring on it can’t probably see this here but just like a little ol ring and it screws on a little lid here now it seals up my grains real nice and tight here to keep it dry to keep the bugs out to keep it going stale sooner so I highly recommend having these kind of containers or something just to the store your bolt drain in for the long term and it seemed just screwed right back on like this see it’s like that and for smart fetches our grain you can buy these little bags from your home brew shop you know this is a one pound bag of Munich malt and by you know pound one pound bags and Crystal malts you can buy it in three pound bags five pound bags but if your vitamin bulk I definitely highly recommend investing in some containers with sealable is on ok.now this equipment that’s required for all grain brewing is is a multi-million rent one or borrow one at local homebrew shop or buy your own obviously have my own here and what you want to do is set the rollers to – just the right way that it could it’s sort of a medium crush it doesn’t turn it into a powder or a flower or it just sort of breaks up the pieces into several bigger chunks and removes the holes off the outside of the grain so what I have here is a pound worth of grain here more multigrain I’m going to dump it in my mill and I replaced a hand crank here with my power drill on the mandrel here so all I do now is just operate my drill and down it goes and you know I’ll show you how that works right here and that’s it and the reason why you crush the grains is so that the starches inside are exposed better to the hot water in the mash that’s coming up and so the whole conversion of starch to sugar actually takes place better and more efficiently so that’s the whole point of this so let’s take a look at the crush grains so here’s a batch of the grain for a batch of beer that I’m making tonight so you have wait on what’s about 10 pounds worth of crush grains in this thing mixed grains the base grain and the specialty grains join in for for extra flavor and color so that’s how that’s why I use a mop mill now it’s time to go over the rest of the all grain equipment that I have and again this what you see here is just basic and basic all grain brewing equipment other people have whole what rooms garages and basements dedicated by a Sikh holiday closet brewer in a way I got everything back on the shelf and back in the closet when I’m done unfortunately so I gotta I gotta use small equipment and creative ways to pack it but for starters now so okay so so the first thing you need to get is a heat source right this is a propane burner I bought online this is a really nice burner it can heat up you know eight gallons of water to boil in like 20 minutes it’s really great if you don’t have one of these no problem just go use your stove if you have an oversight burner I did that for at least 10 years before I bought this thing so it just takes longer to heat up the water now after you have the heat source then you need a kettle you know give you at least one kettle to might be make it easier for you but you don’t need to you can work without – I’ll show you later

maybe how to get around that but this here is an 8 gallon aluminum pot it’s the probably the minimum you want for a five gallon batch you won’t ideally would talk about a 10 gallon but if your budget doesn’t don’t allow it then moving on you need to look at our national water ton this is a 7 f gallon converted Rubbermaid cooler as you can see I put a ball valve on it and a little nipple there to put my the hose on to drink it and on the inside you can see here I have a homemade little manifold system which is intended to siphon the liquid out from underneath the mash at the end of the mash so what I have here are pulling out here I pulled apart but I drill huh apparently focus here I’ve drilled holes on the bottom side all over the place and this is what I use to pick up the liquid and then it have to fix this later here we go and then and then the liquid just drains out of here and out the front and into the kettle when it’s ready what else do you need here you also need a way to kill to cool they worked so what I have here is an immersion children this immersion chiller just goes right inside the kettlemans boiling and there’s a hose in a runoff hose and an input hose to run cold water in and it chills the word in the hot water that’s in this tube then runs off into the grass and water is the grass you also can use the hydrometer and it’ll last for the hydrometer to check it’s this is a gravity from at least three times during this process once for your starting pre-boil gravity when your for your post boil original gravity and one for your final fermented final gravity if it makes any sense to you also other useful tools are nice spoon stirring spoon a siphon hose and in this thing here is an auto siphon this thing here is really great you just could just give it a pump and if you start cycling to eat you don’t have to suck or fill it water and all that want to go – aliens underneath here is a bunch of hoes that I used to run from my outside water spigot into the garage to fill my kettles and to wash things with and since I’m using tap water I bought an inline RV chlorine charcoal filter that I use to filter the chlorine out of our tap water which we have around here so that so that dechlorinator our water for the broom as well see what else we got here and I tucked it in and I did a different separate video on sanitizers you know star sand and a sub bucket in a spray bottle for example so check out that video when you get a chance as well and also one final thing that you don’t really need but I found helpful was making myself a little shroud to cover my kettle with so when it’s outside and it’s windy it’ll actually be more efficient in the flame up Flickr and I have a hard time heating up so that’s that’s the basics there that’s basically what you need to get started with all grain brewing no I didn’t start with all these things when I first started brewing but I think to be they have a comfortable brew day you definitely want to have at least this kind of equipment if not more one thing I forgot to mention here is this this thick is my sort of mic dipstick it kind of tells me how much how many gallons of liquid or in the kettle it’s kind of hard to see what this little tick marks every so often presenting a gallon so push one gallon the seven or seven half gallons up up here somewhere and what that is is that I fill this thing up with water one gallon at a time in the kettle and Mark those off so I know when I’m filling the pot how much water I added before the boil how much work I poured this thing after my mash and when I’m left with after the boil before I transfer it to my fermenter I write write all these things down because they help me determine my evaporation rate the no gravity of the the the estimated original gravity and some other factors on my recipe spreadsheet that I have here for like my next brewing session so I can refine my spreadsheets refine my variables and get better and better and more accurate and repeatable with my recipes so that’s a little extra thing it’s not required to brew but it’s good it’s required to brew well I think so there you go in order to brew a all grain beer you need to have a recipe to start with right so here I have here is a as a printout of a of a spreadsheet I

use to calculate my recipes for me I can show that in a separate video however right now what’s important to know is that you have to have your green bill with the amounts and types of grains also with the types of hops and when they get added to the boil it along with any other ingredients and of course your mash variables of your mash temperature that you want to mash at the water to grain ratio the strike temperatures these all get calculated from my spreadsheet nowadays I got sick of doing it all by hand or copying other people’s recipes and not have to quite match up with what I do with my equipment so I made my own recipe formulator spreadsheet so so you have to have your recipe and now we can start brewing now it’s time to watch your burner turn on the gas are you go great goes so now adjust the heat and adjust the amount of air getting to it to get a nice blue flame there we go that’s nice and good all right so now I can put the shroud on the top of the thing like that and just like that and then I add the water there we go so I’m going to fill this up enough to start my mash okay that’s a tad shy at six gallons how do I know that but them no because like I said maybe earlier I have my little yardstick here my little dipstick right down here but 5 and 3/4 a little under 6 gallons right there so that’s my strike water is only about 4 gallons I think so I got extra here so I’m going to heat this up – I think my strike temperature was for my recipe today was a hundred and sixty two point something and that will vary depending upon a number of variables that I use off my spreadsheet so what I’m doing now is heated up my strike water for my mash strike water is water that’s used to mix with the grains to come up with a mixture in in your mash tun of a certain like target temperature in my case about 152 degrees for this one particular recipe that I’m doing today so what you have here is that you have room temperature green at about 70 degrees Fahrenheit right then you have your strike water now if you’re going to mix water hot water with food temperature grains the actual final temperature is going to be lower than that of the water to some amount so what you got to do now is heat up the water to a target strike temperature hotter than your target mash so I have a you know so you can calculate this estimate this with either with experience or with some formulas I like like myself I have a spreadsheet that helps me with this so what I do that is then mixed the strike water which in this case I’m doing right now is about 160 to 7 degrees point something degrees mixing with 70 degree room-temperature grains for a target mash of 152 degrees that’s that’s what I’m doing right now is heating up that water and now another thing that you want to do right right before you should you uh store your mash is to heat up on a different burner here I’m in my house on my stove heat up about a gallon and a half of water to a near boil and I want to do with this is I’m going to preheat my my mash tun with this in order to have my equations everything worked out better it’s better supposed to have a pre heated mash tun so I’m going to heat the stuff to just about a boil and I’m gonna bring it up I got back outside and I want to pour it in my mash tun and put the lid on for a few minutes okay pot of your boiling hot water going right into the mash tun what a gal and a half and I think then I put the lid on it and let it preheat for several minutes and heat the inside of the mash tun so the point of that is just to preheat the mash tun so my calculations are are more accurate because it assumes a preheated mash tun all right now I feed this emptied it into play back on so it stays hot inside I got my strike water up to over 163 degrees which is my target 163 it’s one hundred and 165 it’s no it’s good good

enough in my opinion okay so what I’m going to do now is open this up here this is the lid add some of the grains actually I’ll do the fittings at once you’re ready I’m going to add I have to add 15 quarts 15 quarts of water strike water into here with my ten pounds of grain that’s what my recipe called for from my spreadsheet and that’s where I put it in here so this holds two quarts at a time so what I want to do here is it’s two quarts and about about 15 quartz right there so then I’m going to add my green I’ll pour some of it in stir some of it in with spoon pour the rest of it in Curtis all in make sure it’s all didn’t mixed and what I’m gonna do is check the final temperature of this with my instant read thermometer it’s a thermapen by the way it truly is instant read it’s not I get the wait twenty seconds for a for a result like the cheap ones so I stick it in oh man I’m 153 that is beautiful right on the mark so what I want to do now is make sure it’s just you know disturbing make sure it’s all stirred in there’s no dry spots chunks in there okay then I’m going to go ahead and put the lid on nice and snug and I’m going to let this thing sit for at least a half-hour more likely an hour so mashing what I’m doing here with the mash is that what we’re doing is that we’re taking these multi grains mix in with this hot water and that temperature of 150 155 degrees usually is a just sort of like an ideal compromise temperature for the enzymes within the grains to start activating and start chopping on the starch shuts in there and converting the starch into the sugar that we need for later on so so as we sit and wait that’s what’s going on right this very minute the enzymes oh I could bring the starches to sugars and that’s a good thing okay now that the mash is mashing we need to heat up some more water so I realized my my burner I’m going to put some more water in here fill it up a lot more and heat it up to about 170 degrees or more they call that the spark water or sparge water people pots of different and that’s going to be used to help drink the mash tun so let me fill this up first all right there we go all filled up put the lid back on bar up your burner higher temperature I’m going to get this thing up to at least a hundred and seventy degrees all right sparge water is over 100 180 degrees which is plenty good to put in the cooler here it’ll coop in the cooler so 180 degrees I bet at all okay so I’m going to pour on a fill this thing up with this water and I’m going to use this the sparked the barge the nation’ to minutes here there we go do it on nice and snug and there we go nice and snug so there we go so now I can repurpose this this kettle now is my official boil kettle going forward okay it’s been close to an hour there’s still some time left on my timer for the for the mash however you don’t really need to wait an entire hour the point wait in the whole hour is to ensure that the starch conversion is complete however I mean it can complete us as little as 20 minutes to pay on the types of grains and the temperature of your mash and all so so if you are in a hurry what you could do is do a little test so you pull a little bit out of here and add a little bit of iodine now I don’t have pure iodine I have the iota

4 which is a sanitizer but it works just as well so I just put a little drop in drop Boop and I stir it in and it disappears that means the conversion is complete if it would have stayed dark or turned purple whatever that were tell me that there’s still some starches in there so although I have about 10 minutes left until the end of the hour for this mash I it’s mashed it’s done I can actually move on to the next step now okay okay mash is complete take off and take off the lid and take a look inside there we go Stuart oh man is that smell good mmm oh man anyway so now we’re ready to start loitering and what I’m what I’m doing here is going to be called a batch sparge method where I drain this into the kettle add more hot water the sparge water i heated up earlier mix it around drain it and until I get my total volume of work I want to boil it’s a really simple method and it does car anything more than than a cooler like this now for this step this is the step where my remember my recipe I want to call us for filling up about four more quarts of water to fill this thing up so I go back to my sparge water that I heated up earlier and I add about that’s two quarts four quarts and I think it was point one core right it’s a lot of eyeball a little bit like that I it’s not that important right and that’s endure stir it all back in there together okay make sure stir in the Greens make sure all those sugars and Kamal’s ring is really good go into solution here all right okay then you recirculate the work which means I’m going to extract from the spigot a couple of these bowls full worth of the work from under the grain bed and the reason why I’m doing this is it initially you’ll get a lot of little chunks of grain and husk pieces in there which you know can cause flavor problems with the beer later when you boil it and things so what I’m trying to do here now is try to settle the grain bed that’s in here to the point where all that comes out is clear and what I mean by clear where it is without chunks of grain in there so there’s some chunks of grain in that one okay then and and I just do it again and again again it should take more than two to three of these before starts to run clear yeah maybe one more pass or in there right there we go it’s running clear now real clear that’s nice perfect okay so now pour that in there real carefully so I don’t disturb the green bed now I’m going to tap the holes this hall was here and I put it in the kettle and I’m going to drain this whole this whole batch into the kettle okay put in the hose and on just like that drop this into the kettle down below open the valve and boom there it goes and there we go going right down into the kettle there just like that and try not to aerate this too much because this hot worked if you stir it mix it with oxygen it also causes up all flavors and things so you want to try to get a nice gentle gentle a pool in there and not get it foamed up or anything okay so that’s why I’m actually using a hose rather than draining it directly into the pan as a as its own stream because it will splash everywhere so you definitely want to guide this hot work into the kettle to avoid exposure to oxygen at this point all right there we go that’s the end of the first drain so they only gave me so much here as you can see so now what I do is close off my valve and I’m going to refill the cooler one more time alright so now like so now I’m going to refill this with more sparge water so I go to my spark cooler off to the side here and count out 14.1

course of of sparge water so it’s too there we go all right so now I’m gonna stir all this backing together so that any remaining sugars in the grains come out and into the new solution here try to coax out those sugars all right and I’m gonna let that how to sit for a few minutes and then I’m gonna do its own work it’s been a few minutes now I can recirculate this so now I got to pull off the hose let’s up the side down here and I’m going to do the same thing as the first batch I have to recirculate it to establish a nice screen bed to keep the larger any chunks really of the grain getting into this thing so I’m going to drain this first little bucket here and of course you want to be careful as to not again splash it either because it also would stir an oxygen which would be bad for the flavor of the beer later so just keep an eye on that so there’s chunks of grain in here carefully pour them back at the top to not stir up my my new grain bed then I’m forming down below do it again or another one though recirculate and maybe one more time for for good measure okay one more time there we go so pour that in there or carefully all around okay now let’s do the nerd ring put this thing on turn it and let it there it goes so there we go so now I’m doing my second draining this should be the only one I have to do well via the initial drain and it’s in a second draining and that should be enough but I will verify that with my measuring stick here we go it’s actually about six point eight seven five I overshot by a tad but that’s okay they will boil off so there we go so I’ll take off the hose fire up the kettle and get this thing boiling okay I get my burner reel it my shroud back on now I could put my kettle back on I would get this thing up to a boil all right well it’s you can see it’s heating up quite nicely if your boil I almost forgot an important step is to get a sample of the word for checking the specific gravity so what’d you do with this sample is that you use this to help determine your Brewhouse efficiency which means uh you know how well the job did your measuring process extract the sugars from the mash into the word because the whole recipe formulation is premise upon this assumption of your efficiency at doing this so it helps you determine how much grain to put it how much water you put in and then as real to and as a result of that how much of how many hops as well so it’s really important to get a sample of this measure the original starting specific gravity and I plug it into my spreadsheet and it will help spit out a number between this number and one I’m going to measure post boil it’ll spit out a nice percentage of my extract efficiency for my brew house efficiency and they all allow me to adjust recipe next time around to be more accurate than it was here today okay it’s time to check my or my specific gravity finally of my pre-boil wort which it’s been chilling in the fridge this whole time it’s now sixty degrees so the thing is not accurate I spin this thing around they look for the reading on there and it’s Wow okay well point 104 to one point of zero for two so that was my specific gravity of my pre boil which was actually two points higher than my estimated one I had estimated one point zero four zero and I end up getting one point zero four two and pretty close but you know this is not an exact science unfortunately with with the home brewing equipment that most people have so I’m pretty proud of that so that’s about it for the authoring portion of the home brewing process from here on now it’s pretty much the same as any other type of brewing extract especially as well it’s the same thing you have a full boil of a full work boil you add hops at regular intervals you cool it down you transfer it to the fermenter and you per minute there with the east and a couple weeks later you have beer that

you can bottle okay so it’s a it’s actually a pretty straightforward process can you watching the next video is my home brewing basic series click on the link provided and don’t forget to subscribe thanks for watching