In our prior video we showed you how to put up the drywall and to waterproof it using KERDI membrane for the Schluter shower system Now in this video, we’re going to show you how to install the Schluter shower pan. This is, again, very straightforward, and we’re going to walk you through it step-by-step All right, so the shower drain, we’re going to have to cut this out in order to get to the drain unless you have access below. So we’ll try to find the joists. We’ll just straighten this out a bit. So we just measure under the plywood until we hit the joist So we got like 11 inches, so we’ll go 11 ¾” The reason for the 11 ¾” is because the joist is 1 ½” wide So basically all I’m trying to do is cut on that joist so that when I cut this out I can easily fit in a new piece of plywood And then we’ll just cut this For the first cut, we used a Sawzall. So we’re just using the Milwaukee Super Sawzall to cut through the existing ¾ inch OSB that’s in the shower. So we wanted to cut along the joist, right in the center of it so that when we take this wood out we’ll be able to add another piece of wood down over top of the center of those joists. Then we just used a circular saw to make a straighter cut. So in this case we got so far, and then we couldn’t go any further, and then we had to use the Super Sawzall to make the rest of the cut Basically, you could use a Sawzall to make all these cuts. And then we just used a hammer to pry up the loose OSB This is a little bit of an odd situation, but you basically have a trap catecorner to the drain location. They put a straight 45 connection here, and I’m not sure exactly why they brought the plumbing over this way But basically what we’re going to do is just basically cut off our existing drain here and extend this drain over into the middle of the shower. To reroute this is getting into quite a bit of additional work. And so everything is pretty much done to code, it’s just a matter of finagling this to our new drain location We simply used a Sawzall to cut the straight run of the pipe right below the drain Okay, so in your Schluter drain, this will look like packaging in the box, but this is actually made to our purpose to slide onto your drain. And this will basically set the drain at the proper height that you need it So don’t throw them away, and use them And basically we’ll just sit this here, and that kind of dictates the height that we need it Two-inch deck screws were used to screw through the OSB and into the 2×4 underneath it And then we’ll get some bigger deck screws into the main joist here So we used 3-inch deck screws to toe screw into the main joist. These 2x4s, now notice how we use a liquid nail on them as well So we’re just using a hammer here to pound that 2×4 down and over. The liquid nail will secure it to the bottom of the OSB. And then again, we’re using these 2-inch deck screws down through the OSB and 3-inch deck screws to toe screw them into the existing joist Here we’re just adding a little 2×4 to the edge of the OSB. And the reason why we’re doing this is the new OSB or plywood that needs to be put down for the Schluter shower drain needs to be properly supported. So that’s why we’re adding all these screws We’re getting a measurement here for the new OSB. We’re just going to cut that to size and fit it, so that when we’re ready to cut the hole in it for the drain, we’ll have it at our disposal Okay, so we want to 16. Three and a half The maximum diameter of the hole is 5 inches It cannot be any bigger than that. You don’t have to use a hole saw. A jigsaw can also be used Here we’re just making sure that the drain is actually centered on the shower. And then we marked the location of the drain down below onto this air duct. As you can see here, we drilled a pilot hole through that and then a bigger hole—a 2 ½” hole—through it so that we can access our pipe from down below This is not ideal, but it’s something that we had to do. And this is probably why that joist was notched out Then liquid nail was applied over top of our 2x material, and we’re going to set our new OSB over top of that. So we’re going to glue and screw the new OSB in this location So as you can see here, we’re just hammering
it into place. And then we’re going to use the same 2 ½” deck screws that we used for the old OSB that we screwed down to the new 2×4 So in this particular situation, this is just a standard drain. What we’re going to do is just glue our riser pipe up and let it hang down wildly down below. And we’ll cut to connect the new P-trap underneath. But with this scenario with the duct work where you can’t see this drain, it’s going to be easier just to have a good wild piece of riser pipe come up. And then we’ll connect that afterwards underneath With ABS, it’s really important to apply the ABS cement to both the hub of the drain and the pipe itself and hold it in place for several seconds Okay, since we’re going to be just mixing a half a bag, we’re still going to make it at the wetter ratio for membranes and setting the shower pan. So we’re going to use 4 quarts of water for half a bag We highly recommend using Schluter’s ALL-SET for this and mixing it according to the directions By using ALL-SET, you’re going to maintain the Schluter warranty Mix for 5 minutes It’s imperative to mix ALL-SET to the right consistency and per the directions. We were also testing DeWalt’s new FlexVolt mud mixer, and it worked really well We cleaned off the top of the subfloor in the shower area—that’s also important so that you don’t have any debris interfering with the pan Okay, so one of the nice things about these pans is they have some pre-markers here for the different size showers that are kind of typical. This is a 60” x 38” pan, and I can cut this down to basically any size that I want. Obviously this is a center drain location. But my first marker here that they have depicted on the back, if you cut this and the other side, it would be a 54”pan; this is for 48”. Now with my drywall installed in my shower, we’re at 47”. So I basically have to cut a half inch off of this line I can just reference this line and cut a half inch off to get my 47”. And then the same with this side Now, you want to pay attention to where your drain is located before you go cutting this One thing about the Schluter system: it’s very forgiving if you mess up. Say if you cut this thing an inch off for any reason, you can easily just pack the corners with thinset or mud to fill in the areas. So if you cut things off a little bit, it’s not the end of the world. You can still use the pan and get this thing waterproof. You can always measure from your center of your drain and make sure that everything works properly Now, we centered that drain, so I know that I just have to get a 47” overall width And we’ll double-check ourselves here. That’s about 47 inches All right, so we’ll just use a new blade on a utility knife and just cut the pan This is the nice thing about the Schluter shower tray. It’s made out of light-weight expanded polystyrene, which is strong, but you can use a utility knife to cut through the pan and cut it to size. So as you can see here, it doesn’t take very long to do that. And what we like best is that they have the templates on the back of these new shower trays so that you can see exactly the lines that you need to cut if you have a common size tray And then as far as the width, these pre-markers on here is for a 32-inch pan, and that’ what we want to go with. So we’re going to use the guidelines that it already has for a 32-inch pan So again, we just cut this shower pan to size in terms of the width and length. And you can do the exact same thing So we cut down this 60” x 38” shower tray into the size that we needed for the small shower remodel. So again, there’s a lot of customization that you could do with the Schluter shower trays, so keep that in mind So here we’re just dry-fitting it to make sure that it does fit properly. And if we needed to cut anything down, we could. But we have a really nice, tight fit against the KERDI membrane. And then we added the foam insert for the drain, and we dry-fit the drain as well to make sure that it was going to
fit the right way Okay, so as you’re dry-fitting it, just double-check to see if this drain’s going to sit level because this is pretty important to make everything sit level. So just put your little yellow torpedo level on here And you could see how much room you have as far as play. If you need a little bit of adjustment, you have a good ¼” all the way around to move this around. Well obviously, you just make sure that this is center when we get to set this. But the way that we’re doing this, having this riser, since we have the ability to connect the plumbing below, we’re going to set the pan and everything first and then set the drain. Now if you didn’t have that and you needed to set the drain first and connect the plumbing, you would want to take these little center pieces out and thinset them into place around the drain And that will give the proper height of this drain to the pan system So if you have access below, you could do something like this. Connect everything later And if not, you’re going to want to have this drain set first and then the pan Okay, first thing before you set the pan is to wipe down your substrate with a damp sponge Get any dust off of there. And this helps keep that subfloor from drying out the thinset too fast To apply the pan with the thinset, you want to use a ¼” x 3/8” notch trowel. So you’re going to need a bigger trowel to set this pan. You need to backside your trowel first and burn it into the substrate. And then directional troweling from there And for these parts, we just need to embed this into our thinset. All right, and then we need to get some thinset around the drain I used my 6-inch knife to do that. And then just do a twisting motion to get that set into place. Also, use your level to make sure it’s sitting nice and level. And then since you have come movement, you might want to just measure to make sure this is sitting nice and center. And then apply a little bit more thinset around the drain. Use a KERDI trowel to trowel it out. And then it comes with this little fleece to adhere to the drain
It’s imperative to make sure that this fleece is as flush as possible with the fleece that’s already on the Schluter shower tray. So as you can see here, the thinset was mixed to the right consistency, and we’re removing any of the excess thinset that oozes out between that fleece and the drain assembly and the shower tray. And we’re sponging down any excess thinset as well. So again, that’s really important So you just set up that fleece around the flange. So the important part is that this fleece making a good connection to the drain because this fleece is bonding to the flange and the pan itself. So just make sure that this isn’t overhanging and is actually bonding to the flange All right, now we measure our curb. We’ll butt right up to it. So 47 inches. Forty-seven inches A speed square was used to make sure that the pencil marks were equidistant from the edge of the Schluter shower curb. And then we just used a utility knife to cut this curb to size Again, just use your utility knife to cut this The nice thing about the new Schluter shower curb is that it already has the fleece on top. So when you’re cutting it to size and you’re installing it, there’s no need to put any additional fleece over top of the curb. The old curbs were just foam and then you have to add the KERDI membrane over top of it. But now that the KERDI membrane is already embedded into the curb, it really speeds up the installation quite a bit. It also reduces the points of failure Here we just cutting the support using a Sawzall Since I’m trying to keep all this tile underneath it here, I’m going to have to cut this difference in height. So we got basically an inch that we need to cut off of the bottom of this To trim down this curb, we made two marks on each end, and we notched out the curb using a utility knife and then snapped a chalk line across the length. This is really one of the easiest things to do for not only a curb but for pretty much any backer board, is snapping a chalk line. Then we used a utility knife to cut out the portion of the curb that we needed to remove. So remember, we’re going to be setting this curb down into that crevice between the Schluter shower tray and the existing tile in this bathroom. So that’s one of the reasons why we’re cutting it down to size I’m also going to have to cut some of this out All right, so we need to make that basically two inches. So we actually have to cut out this much of our blocks Using an oscillating multi-tool, like the Fein MultiMaster, makes this so much easier Obviously, it’s just foam, and you can use a utility knife. But you can also control the depth of the cut fairly easily using an oscillating multi-tool. And it just speeds up the entire process, which, speed as you know, is really important when you’re installing a shower because there are so many different elements to it. If you can speed up the process in any way, shape, or form of the tool, it’s definitely worth the investment So we cut down all those support blocks inside the curb, and then we dry fit it to make sure that it would fit in between the shower tray and the existing tile floor So I’m setting this in a way that will allow this to drain towards the shower here as well It doesn’t have to be much, but it’s got to be something to drain. Since I’m adjust cutting this, if you’re not adjusting the cut, then this is just going to be square and straight, and then you’ll have to pitch your tile to make it work. But since I have the capability of being able to slope this, I might as well go ahead and do that with the curb So you also want to get some thinset against your pan to bond to it The ¼” x 3/8” square notch trowel is used to apply Schluter’s ALL-SET to the edge of the shower tray. And having that mortar on the edge properly supports and bonds the
Schluter shower curb to the tray And then you want to put some on the side of your KERDI so it bonds with the sides of the walls as well Okay, and then on the other side of the curb, we want to put some KERDI-FIX to adhere this to the outside floor KERDI-FIX will make sure that the curb is properly bonded to that tile floor outside the shower. So remember, in this particular remodel, we did not remove the floor tile So we kept everything in place. And having the KERDI-FIX allowed us to properly bond the curb to the existing tile floor Now what we’re doing is just smoothing out any thinset that oozed out between the curb and the shower tray because we’re going to be bonding KERDI-BAND and the inside and outside corners between the curb and the shower tray. So here again we’re just cleaning up a little bit before we start the process of completely waterproofing the curb You obviously want to make sure you’re level horizontally, too We’re pre-cutting all the KERDI-BAND, and we highly recommend that you do that because it just makes the process so much easier So obviously, you need two pieces of KERDI-BAND for the width and two pieces of KERDI-BAND for the length that goes on the back wall and between the curb and the shower tray So again, we’re applying Schluter’s ALL-SET thinset mortar to the corners here. So the first step in this process is to apply thinset both on the two walls and the shower tray in the corner. So you have three different planes that need to be waterproofed. You have the wall, in this case, the curb, and the shower tray. The shower tray, the curb, and the wall on the other inside corner. And then on the back half of the shower you have the two walls and the shower tray What we’re doing here is applying a pre-formed Schluter inside corner. Now these come with either the drain or the shower tray. And so what you need to do is put those in the corner and make sure that it’s as flush with the shower tray and the two walls as possible It’s really important to remove all excess thinset between this inside corner and the walls and the tray so that your tile isn’t affected The important part of these corners is just to get them tight into the corner. You don’t want to have a lot filled up. That’s why using the proper trowel, it’s important to use the KERDI trowel. It’s going to have that minimal amount that is required to make this waterproof. And then also mixing your thinset to the proper consistency will make sure that this build up is very minimal. So if you find yourself having a hard time with the thinset where it’s not going to be real thin and smooth, then you might want to remix some more thinset to make it a little bit looser and get this tighter in the corners So we’ll start with all the corners first So like Steve just said, we started with all of the corners with the shower tray installation You want to get all the corners in place before you move on to anything else. Corners are the major part of any shower that could potentially leak. And at the drain as well. But in particular because this is a very, very small shower, the corners are kind of the weak points. So we put in all the corners, these four pre-formed inside corners go in first. Again, you want to remove as much of the thinset mortar as possible so that those corners sit flush and flat in relation to the shower tray, the curb, and the walls. And the reason why is if you’ve got a little bit of a hump or a bump between the inside corner and the surface of the tray, the curb, or the wall, it’s really going to be hard to make that up in terms of tiling Now, you can do it by back buttering or back troweling the tiles. But sometimes it can be difficult if you’ve got small tiles like we are going to have in this shower tray So we’re going to be installing penny tiles, and we wanted to make sure that the corners and the KERDI-BAND were as flat as possible in relation to all the surfaces Now what we’re doing is applying with the
notched side of the KERDI trowel thinset to the shower tray, and to the curb, and also to the walls. So the reason why we’re doing this is we’re going to be bonding KERDI-BAND at all these intersections because the KERDI-BAND is going to go over top of the inside corners and over top of the shower tray and the walls and the curb, and it’s going to waterproof this Schluter shower tray. Now you need to directionally trowel the thinset mortar such that all the notches face the same direction, right? So that when the KERDI-BAND is bonded to the top of the thinset and compressed using the 6” drywall knife, all the air will collapse out of the ridges and out from between the KERDI-BAND and the thinset mortar. Directional troweling helps eliminate air pockets and possible leak points on the KERDI-BAND. So it’s really, really imperative that you do the directional troweling So we’re starting with the back wall. It doesn’t really matter which wall you begin with, but we started with the back wall. Then we applied KERDI-BAND between the shower tray and the curb. And then from there, we smooth out the thinset between the KERDI-BAND and the wall and the shower tray and the curb Now, one thing of note is when the KERDI-BAND is set over top of the wall and the shower tray or the curb and the shower tray, it should be set equidistant. Meaning you have the same amount of KERDI-BAND on the wall as you do on the tray. So the few inches that you have on the tray should equal the few inches that you have on the wall or the curb. So again, the KERDI-BAND should be set equidistantly And then you should remove any of the excess thinset mortar that is between the KERDI-BAND and the curb, and the KERDI-BAND and the shower tray. And the same thing goes for the walls This takes a little bit of time, but the theory behind all this is that the thinset mortar, as it starts to set up, the crystals actually start to grow roots in between the KERDI-BAND and the shower tray and the walls. And those roots are so strong that it also prevents water from being wicked down into the different transitions. So that’s the reason why we use thinset mortar So you want to have these pieces as even as possible. The idea is that everything that overlaps to overlap by 2 inches. So when you’re putting this in, just make sure that you have 2 inches of coverage on every angle, including 2 inches that go over the corner, 2 inches that go up the wall. So anywhere that you apply the KERDI-BAND, you want to have 2 inches of coverage onto whatever waterproofing seam that you’re trying to accomplish And obviously you have thinset underneath There’s 2 inches as well. So anything you’re trying to overlap, make sure that there’s a layer of thinset So now we’re going to finish off the KERDI-BAND installation by adding KERDI-BAND to the plumbing wall and the wall opposite that. So again, we’re just using the same methodology that we used for the curb and the main wall. We’re just applying the KERDI-BAND and smoothing it out as much as possible. So you’ve got overlap with this KERDI-BAND piece, and the KERDI-BAND piece on the curb and the back wall, as well as the corner pre-formed pieces So there’s overlap. And that’s why you want these pieces of KERDI-BAND to be as smooth and as flat as possible Take a sponge and just wipe down everything smooth to make sure that you don’t have any humps. And then let’s put our outside corners So two outside corners are necessary for this installation because of the curb. The curb is meeting up with the wall, so you need two outside corners: one for the left side, and one for the right side. And this will overlap the KERDI-BAND that’s both on the wall and the curb. And the reason why you need this is because there was no KERDI-BAND that was put on the top of the curb between the curb and the walls. So these also come with your drain or your Schluter shower kit. So you got to put thinset underneath this outside corner and smooth it out again as much as possible
Now, these corners can sometimes tent up It’s very hard to see maybe in the video But if you’ve worked with these outside corners before, sometimes they tent up if they’re a little bit too long on one side So what you can do, as long as you have the 2-inch overlap, is you can trim down these outside corners. But again, you just need to have that 2-inch overlap between these outside corners and any other KERDI-BAND that was applied between the wall and the curb or the shower tray. So you can cut down these outside corners. It’s just a matter of having that 2-inch overlap that Schluter wants for the purpose of waterproofing. So that’s what we did there. We actually cut that corner with a utility knife And we also have to mention that it doesn’t hurt to have a pair of scissors. Scissors, they definitely come in handy when cutting down these inside or outside corners and the KERDI-BAND. You don’t have to use a utility knife necessarily. You can cut right through it with scissors So as you saw there, we cut down the inside portion of that outside corner that was going inside the shower so it would fit properly in terms of the height differential between the curb top and the shower tray. But again we’re just smoothing down these outside corners so that none of the thinset and the corner itself interfere with our tile work later on Okay, so in your drain shower kit, it’ll come with three different sections: the actual finish drain strainer, this little collar that adjusts into the drain, and then this little flange that you thinset in. So you just simply put this flange around this sleeve So there’s a couple of indentations on this that have little stubs on the one side. You want to press this into… it basically clamps into the edge of this. So as you could see on the side of the drain it has like a little indentation; it kind of flares out. So these little indentations on here is what kind of holds the drain into place. So it just snaps in. And I would advise when you’re tiling to take the actual drain strainer off because you don’t want to get a whole bunch of thinset all smooched in this. It’ll be really difficult to clean everything out. So just take the actual strainer off So then the idea of this is to adjust your strainer to the tile depth that you have So you have a lot of room here. You have almost probably close to an inch of room. So if you’ve got some really thick tile, this will adjust back and forth. But basically, the idea is once you get the tile in here, you can press this down to the level of your tile. So it’s a good idea to try to get somewhat close so you’re not spending too much time pressing it down This is our tile here. We’re using a penny tile. So I’m just going to keep it so it’s just pretty far above of presses down after I have the tile set. But what you want to do is thinset this in place because this little collar here is meant to embed into thinset So embed thinset around this. And you also want to get—this is an important detail—you definitely want to get some thinset on the corners of this strainer. And this is going to help support. When you press this down, it’ll have some thinset underneath of it to have support. So put a little bit of thinset at each corner. And then you’ll embed this into our thinset. And then for now we’ll just, while we’re doing the layout, we’ll just get rid of this thinset; smooth it out Since we’re using penny tile, we don’t have any reference, we’re just going to use this for reference This 2-foot level is put up against the drain, and we measured off of the front wall in two different locations to make sure that the drain was nice and square with the front wall
and the back wall So I think that makes it straight And then, it has a little emblem on here So I’m just going to make sure when I put this on here I’m able to have the name Schluter shower trays and curbs are very versatile As you saw, you can cut them to size just using a utility knife The next step in this shower installation was to tile the shower pan and the wall. So if you’re doing a custom-tiled shower and you wanted help with that, definitely check out bathroomrepairtutor.com. That’s where we have our video library with over 200 additional video tutorials that walk you through everything step-by-step for a custom bathroom or shower installation. So make sure you visit bathroomrepairtutor.com You won’t be disappointed Thanks for watching this video, and we’ll see you in the next one. Take care!