HOW TO MAKE A CUSTOM DOLL? | I was preparing myself for this moment for two years (': | PART 1

Hi guys! Welcome to Pixienatory I’m Pixie and today I want to show you a small part of my art I’m custom doll artist and welcome to my channel Introduce you Estel – character that I made up a couple of years ago, and I also filmed this video then Now you will see how I made her So let’s start my first ever doll video! As a base I took lovely Monster High Draculaura First of all I get rid of the factory hair To do this, I tie a pony tail with a regular rubber band After that with manicure scissors I cut off all the hair as close to the roots as I possibly can Welcome Simba My dear furr friend – And now it’s done! When our poor thing become nearly bald, it’s time to get rid of the hair stumps sticking out of her head With tweezers, take out all the hair and glue, plastic holders through the hole in her neck And now she’s is completely bald With cotton pads, q-tips and acetone remove factory makeup It is essential to work in mask and in well-ventilated area I have no mercy for my dolls, and therefore boldly clench doll’s head to get access to the deeps on her face Cleaning of the doll’s head should be as thorough as it possible Her head must be squeaky clean As soon as it clear, I’m ready to make wefts for a wig Take a piece of solid cardboard of needed size and wind the wefts from acrylic yarn on the board After that cut the loops off Now you need to make more ponytails from threads Swirl the lock into a simple tight knot in the center so that the fibers don’t fall apart The number of tails depends on the amount of work Now you need a piece of cotton fabric and a furr comb And slow process of combing out the locks begins There will be a lot of waste Something can be crafted out of leftovers so keep it For example, you can stuff a toy with it Ideally, you need such fluffies on both sides And you need a lot of them With hair iron straighten up our tails Caution! You can get burned I carefully comb the acrylic while it is still hot Do the same with another color I got such a fluffy bulk It’s time to glue the wefts Part the tail into sections and cut off a little of it under the very knot Then apply glue and make a piece of tress on a film with a toothpick It is important to apply the glue evenly over the fibers So we got a ready-made weft I cut off excess glue and give the weft a neat shape on the edge

Some wefts will be longer than the others The tedious process is over and the interesting begins It is new hairstyle time In order to protect the head from glue, I put food film on it and secure it on the neck with elastic band Well, now make Frodo mummy To do this, put on an a piece of thin stretchy cloth and secure it tightly on the doll’s head For comfortable work tream edges of the future hair cap With a pencil, I line the future cap right on top of the cloth I use the same glue as before, but this time as a hardener for the cap This is ordinary PVA kinda glue, but you can use any you like I like this one because it is convenient to work with It dries to a transparent film and at the same time is slightly elastic for some time after drying You need to cover the entire cap richly, paying special attention to the edges Then it will be more convenient to cut the desired shape Now waiting until it dries When the cap is dry, it must be carefully removed from the head and cut along the contour Sometimes the cap may not work, so be sure to do fitting Mine is OK and I pin it to the head with pins And now the matter is small Glue everything up I glue the wefts from the bottom up, in layers, alternating in the right places blond and pink colors Layer by layer moving up to the parting Before doing the parting, I do two tails I twist a wide weft into a spiral I add some pink locks as color accents I made two identical tails And now they need to be secured on the cap With superglue I firmly glue both tails to the cap Now I continue to glue the wig and hide junction places Layer by layer, approaching the parting I help myself with a toothpick and often brush hair as I assemble the wig On each layer of the wig, I add pink locks

– This is how the pre-last layer on the wig looks like It remains to hide the bald spot That’s better Now let’s make a beautiful parting I glue the widest, thickest and most presentable tress to the top of the wig You need to work carefully, therefore it is important to do it slowly, allowing the glue to dry I do the same with the other side Aaaand just combing We got a nice mane with a nice parting I can stop at this, but I’m going further To hide the messy edges of the cap, I use one simple trick To perform it, you need to remove the wig from the head We will glue the wig from the inside And loot at the result The edges are not visible and the hair style is more dense With the wig sorted out, go to the next stage Let’s prepare the body I cut anchors to all of my dolls With a x-acto knife I cut the anchor “Yeeeah…” and “You are absolutely right!” Don’t do as I do Do it safely! I’ve already cut dozens of dolls, and so have my fingers Don’t repeat my mistakes I like tip of the anchor to be smooth I usually throw away the leftovers as unnecessary With tip like that, the doll’s head can be easily removed, without fear of ruining the finished faceup Next I want to clean up the seams and factory markers from the doll’s body to make it slick Most of work I’m doing with x-acto knife I do this carefully so as not to cut off too much This is rough work, but important As it done, I need a fine grain sanding paper to clean up all the unevenness With a small piece of sandpaper, I go all over the roughness left after the knife This step is time consuming and can be done by an engraver Two years ago I did not have it, and therefore – hello hellish manual labor I remove plastic dust with a wet tissue and work in a mask Eventually I get a glass-smooth figure of a doll without seams Yes that’s right The time has come I like to do faceup on a doll wearing a thin gardening glove I’m using prismacolor pencils I always start with the eye lines For it, I usually use a pencil color that matches the skin tone, or compliments it This time it’s a light brown color The pencil is sharp and I sharpen it in the process so that the lines are clean There is nothing special to say about the process of drawing a line, you yourself see everything, and therefore we will just enjoy the process I apologize in advance that the color of the picture will change from time to time Two years ago I was shooting with my phone camera, and therefore the video quality is poor, but I hope you will forgive me New videos will be much much better)

I draw both eyes parallel to each other so that they keep more or less symmetrical I’m not worring about the mirror ideal symmetry, as I like it when imperfections remains in my work Usually, those are making face alive, just like human’s And unfortunately, some of the footage were damaged due to the poor quality Besides Prisma pencils, I use some of the Derwent watercolors palette In this work, I use them to draw eyebrows and pupils Derwents are softer pencils, and therefore sometimes better suited to the specific task As you may have noticed, my favorite and main material in my work is watercolor pencils I love the fact that I have more control with them than with paints and brushes By the way, I paint everything on one sealant layer Now the line and base are completely ready I can start blushing For blushing I’m using my old pastels and cheapest ones from Mungyo I pick my soft pastel straight from the chalk with a brush and apply pigment on the doll’s face on top of the line It’s okay if the pastel overlaps the pencil in the process In the end, it’s very easy to fix I use many different brushes for my work These are usually small brushes like nail art brushes, art brushes, or makeup brushes Any type of brush has its pros and cons, and therefore each artist chooses a set at his discretion To cover large areas, you need fluffy soft brushes, to work on smaller details, flexible miniature brushes are more preferable

When the main work with the blush came to an end, I re-draw with a pencil those lines that were covered with a chalks I give them back their brightness and expressiveness With watercolor paints, I add texture to the skin I cover the area where the texture is not needed with a small paper sheet, and with a wet brush dipped in diluted paint I spatter micro drops onto the uncovered areas I remove bigger drops in the process with a q-tip This method allows the doll’s face look more realistic and less plasticky None of my faceups is complete without a shimmers I really love the soft gentle glow on the doll’s face And as the law says: There is never enough At the very end of the work, I use white gouache for scleras, highlights and accents Where it is necessary, I also add brightness to the colors I like it when my dolls are vibrant And the final touches before covering all this beauty with a sealant At this stage, to add a little bit of a life to the face left I use Tamiya Gloss for eyes and lips Read all the instructions carefully Many materials are not safe for health at all The matter is small I cover lips and eyes with a gloss The face-up is ready and we can start working on the doll’s look First of all, I’ll teach you how to make pattern for a doll The main material in this case is paper tape Wrap the doll’s body tightly in a food film Then we wrap around the body of the model with small strips of paper tape I do this along the contour of the future dress When we have a paper base, we draw the outlines of future patterns on it At this stage, you don’t need to worry about accuracy Next, you need to carefully cut off the tape along with the film from the doll’s body Be careful with sharp tools, the plastic may be scratched

We cut the detail we got along the outlines I usually keep the better half of the pattern and adjust it along the way Remember that you may need to do darts Such patterns often turn out to be very inaccurate, they need to be finalized And this is a dart I do the final work on paper Already with all the place for hemming In that case, I am sure that my workpiece will fit as it should To make sure, I try on a paper piece on a doll The dress will be out of PU fabric It is a thick, colorful material I transfer the pattern to the fabric And cut it out Places for darts on the bust I do not cut Then I make the patterns of the wings This will be one of the main elements of this outfit, and therefore there will be many of em and different shapes These will be smaller for hands and shoes decoration Now draw large wings for the back piece and cut them out I made several additional layers of wings of different sizes For the wings I use a white PU on a hard base Transfer patterns on the material and cut it out That amount will be enough for me Now let’s do a little fitting It’s time for making shoe parts I took the original MH platform shoes as a basis Then I draw the outline of the pattern along the edge I must say right away that such a method is the least accurate of all, for lazy-creams, and here’s why And this is how the modified finished pattern should look like Now I’m preparing the fabric for the skirt This is a light, airy fabric with a gorgeous metallic sheen, and it’s edges creeps like hell The question is solving with a lighter

And now we come to an end of the first video Please leave a like and support the channel with a subscription! All these details will turn into an outfit in the second video, which you can watch just now by clicking in the corner of the screen Thank you for watching Write comments, I will read them with pleasure Have a nice day! See ya in the next video! 🙂