Electric Fuel pump bypass kit, W24 Workhorse Chassis with 8.1 Vortec Engine

well good morning and I mean morning it’s like 2:00 a.m. and once again under my RV this is my this is a workhorse chassis a w24 and what I’ve come up with is a I call it a fuel pump I guess a fuel pump bypass if your fuel pump fails it’s a walk around until you get somewhere where you can drop the tank and get it replaced so let me back up a little bit further explain the reason I come up want to do this is a read on the RV forms people with this particular chassis and design and maybe it’s coming with a lot of other motorhomes we have this large fuel tank which is right here this RV has a 75 gallon fuel tank inside we have a fuel pump that has a also has the fuel pump fuel pressure regulator built on to it too and here’s the line connections you see this line here normally connect right here to the filter this line comes out of the tank it’s coming out of the tank at about 62 psi because it’s regulated in the tank goes through you fuel filter goes through this T this T you go up and this line returns it right back to the tank so the fuel pump is constantly pumping fluid or fuel constantly so it helps keep the fuel pump cool and then the remaining fuel goes out this line which heads on up the frame rail to the engine to to keep it going down the road so so that’s how the system works but if your fuel pump fails on you you can be in a heck of a particularly safe Ridge or you’re going down interstate the engine just dies or whatever I don’t know how often if it gives you much of a warning I guess sometimes I could just quit anytime so you pull off the sound road things you don’t start troubleshoot you get a tow truck you tow it somewhere then whenever they get somewhere you gotta find somebody who can walk on a motor home to begin with they also somebody has to have the ability to remove up to 75 gallons of fuel out of the fuel tank drop the fuel tank order a fuel pump get the fuel pump and install it put everything all back together and you know thousand dollars later I don’t know how much it’s probably gonna be pretty expensive tow bill you’ll be back on your vacation and I’ve been thinking about that actually for over a year I’ve been pondering that possibility no this this RV now is 11 years old nothing you know there’s always a chance so I thought there’s got to be a way I could come up with a workaround if my fuel pump ever failed what can I do to get myself on down the road get myself to a campground because I could get into a campground and you know I thought I had the idea I could get you goodbye you know couple brand new large PT 5 gallon trash cans momentarily pump the fuel out into those brand new drop the tank put in a filter pump it back in in a worst-case scenario or maybe if you’re not too far from home with this little thing I’ve come up with right there it is oh yeah and you can least get yourself back home and do it yourself if you if you wanted to or just get you to a better better repair shop if he’s out help we all know we’re but anyway so I got the thing about that but my biggest problem was first of all I have the audio okay can we just here’s the line going into the tank and I thought well looking kit you just hook like a pump like this this is the inline external fuel prompt fuel pump 1 R psi my first thought okay can we just hook onto this line and pump it on up to the engine well that won’t work because you can’t get in you can’t suck to this because this is going through the regulator and the fuel pump I mean you can put a line 100 and try it you can sup feel through it but just barely it’s very difficult so I know pump would never work so I said okay that’s not gonna work so then I got to strategize and so hack the biggest problem is accessing fuel in the tank because the you know there’s no clearance you if you have a little space that’s all you got you know between the the tank and the floor there’s just with this particular design there’s no way to get to the fuel lines or to drop it’s just no way to do it so I got to looking on this particular one when they build the chassis luckily and maybe they do it on other ones too they design the fuel tanks so that you can fill it either from the left side of the right side so mine is on the left side feel so that’s what my lines are but luckily and looked on the I happen to be in here looking around and I found on the left side

there’s your plug actually right here it is so I’m left side of this tank if you look around you’ll find this plug you can remove the hose clamp and remove it and that gives you an access where you can drop a line down into the tank so that’s what I’ve done so I’ve got you see I’ve made my fittings here off my fuel filter come down to my pump and then this right here is a piece of quarter-inch hose and it runs down the long side I just drop it right into the tank all this works now I’ve done tested or drove it down the road so I’m fixin to dismantle everything and put it back its factory and then I’ll show you in detail of how I did all that but while it’s all still together I wanted to show you a little bit of what I come up with and the fact that it does work and I think it’s pretty slick and I’ve only spent about a hundred bucks or so I have to get all that itemized might have all the part numbers and stuff for you okay I had to pause for a second um one thing one to talk about is also because this is absolutely not a permanent solution it by no means this is just something to get your bike get you out of a bad spot if you just need to get to the next town could save you up to a big tow bill but if you’re under here you want to you know be sure if you’re attempting this absolutely pull the fuel pump relay on the firewall you pull the plastic cover off on those workhorses anyway you’ll have a diagram inside a plastic cover and it will show you which relay controls the fuel pump so you want to unplug that cause if you don’t and you’re under here taking lines loose and somebody comes along turns on the key there’s gonna be a truckload of fuel is gonna pop out that mine and that’s something you definitely don’t want to happen okay I’m gonna talk about my first attempt and my first failure my first attempt of course I realized I would I installed a gauge on the dashboard so I can always monitor my fuel pump pressure I got a on my youtube channel you’ll see a video on how I did that it was you know maybe a $60 part and it’s really handy to have just so you always know what what you feel part pressure is and if you see it dropping maybe you can catch an early failure save yourself some trouble so my first idea I thought okay I can maybe come up with a with this bypass now I’ve got a a way of accessing the fuel I thought okay I need a an inline pump so this pump puts out 100 psi but I thought well hundred psi I can’t be seen 100 psi to my injectors I need to get it regulated some way so that’s where I found this this is a fuel filter with a built in regulator this is a common fuel filter that’s used on a on some late-model Corvettes and the way it works is the fuel goes in from the fuel pump then this is your return line would go back to the fuel tank and then on the other end right here this would go on up to the engine so that’s what I did I had all this plumbed up as a test number one and started up and noticed only had 52 psi and I thought well that’s not any good one I’m not getting 9 psi so one thing I figure it’s the distance I believe when these things are used in a Corvette situation these are matted really close to the engine I believe that’s the only thing I can figure in the distance will go on here well you know we’re this is motorhomes 38 feet long so eliminate that so I thought well let me just hook up the pump directly and see what kind of psi I got so I took this out and plumb plumbed it directly so here’s my inline fuel pod things like sixty-seven dollars at O’Reilly’s there’s my line that I got dropped into the tank through the extra fill port on the left hands on the the right hand side and so it’s coming out 100 psi and to my surprise once I go there’s a filter urn it does the return goes up to the engine at the engine I’m getting 58 59 psi so it’s perfect that’s what I’m looking for I think normally running psi we’re looking around 60 61 when I’m going down the road with the factory line so I’m just a couple of psi psi off and you’ll see in the later in the video me driving down the road and going 4000 rpm just for a moment it dropped down to like 49 psi but I rarely run the engine that was kind of our PMS but just as a test I wanted to see I would do and I monitoring the fuel trims everything looked good ran great no problems I wanted to explain a little bit about that something else I thought of as be something you should always carry with you is a spare fuel pump now if you Chrome underneath your workhorse chassis and you still got one of these filters it

looks like this there’s probably never been changed been on there for a long time because I think they quit making these several years ago and now you you get this a little adapter believe Dale from I RV to form still sells these I’ll confirm that and I’ll put a link on the on the notes here on the video and just then you can just use a standard Fram wicks fuel filter that you come and you pick up anywhere so car learns the cures all rested up don’t look good be sure to change it and keep a spare so this is actually my spare I got lucky found this sitting on a a guy’s park shelf it’s brand new hey there’s full of dust but what the boxes dip dust anyway so that’s never been used yet but I keep it as a spare so if I have any issues and take care of that on the road and something else you want to keep with you is a 5/8 line wrench so be sure to keep you on of those so that way you can change that keep well actually keep a whole set of line which is with me and the RV must-have tools if you have any fuel filter issues oh and also you go if you’re go to change your filter do anything working on the designs you want to be sure you know brake lines loose start wiggling things because you most likely have somewhere around you know potentially up to 60 psi on these lines and it’s gonna drift quite a bit out you don’t once it gets all the pressure off so brake and Lou start waiting a little bit do you see a fuel seeping out and so that way you don’t get a a knife or all right I just put this back in but I realized something not help yeah it was true what tools wise all you need is a that’s a five-eighths line ranch and also a half-inch ranch because she got or you could use a half inch then wall socket because you’ve got three half inch bolts it loosens up all these clamps here you got three of those maybe nicely got four he’s got four but connection wise um like when you’re putting it back together like this your first connection like this your second connection like this your last we just want to make this shoe is your last because when you go to put this line in there you’re gonna snow it’s gonna be kind of give you trouble because what you need to do you need to pull back on this line so coming down to bins well this being that gives you a little room you can you can flex it so you can bend it back about a half inch or so and then we’ll get everything to release cuz once you pull that back your your filter or slide back oops you know good 1/2 inch or so and you’ll be able to get this line in there because it goes into your kind of kind of deep so that’s what I just did and I thought that what might help you out if you’ve never done it before they say my first rodeo unfortunately I’ve been under this RV and many of ours aren’t they sniff this thing to keep everything in tip-top shape something else I’m gonna do while I’m under here I’m going to call up forward just a little bit and show you I had an issue one time with vapor lock they you know you don’t hear very much but the symptom I had I think that’s it hasn’t done it before this like three years ago I was leaving Tucson heading up to Grand Canyon camera what highway it was a big old long hill very high elevation a 90 degree day and almost got the top and just lost all power and pulled off spider Road all over do it was popping and cracking it would only idle so I think I shut everything down looked around everything seemed okay let it sit there about 30 minutes look cool off she started up and everything seemed okay and I made it on in then I started doing some some troubleshooting and I’ll crawl forward here in just a second and I’ll show you what I found okay everything’s all bolted up back to factory like it was when I started so I can put my relay in there and start it and then I’ll crawl back under here just to make sure there’s no leaks so anytime you monkey with dual lines don’t just tighten things up and forget about it come back and check make sure there are no leaks once everything’s pressurized I’m gonna try to show you how this line okay back up a little bit this is line coming around but around the corner don’t see it that’s what connects to my inline fuel pump so let’s come around here and go through the frame and this is where if this RV had fuel fill on the right hand side then this is where the fuel line would come out and drop the motor home and this this is this plug here is just for the vent area but it’s too small to stick any kind of line through and this one you just barely get a quarter inch

of fuel line through it out I just momentarily stuck a rag in here just to keep being fumes from escaping I and you can see that a quarter inch line will just fit in there and I like to know somebody can tell me what this is see those old they’re about two little valves there they open up like old flappers one thing I can figure they’ve been like if that’s uh if you have a rollover or a wreck of some sort and it rips though all the lines loose it keeps fuel from just gushing out that’s my guess but I’m just guessing it back and then I got me a piece of brass Pike which gives it a little bit of weight and keeps it on the bottom right there and that works perfectly you think I’d be too small but it supplies plenty quarter inch line and this uh a little piece of copper pipe because I couldn’t if you try to use a larger pipe and you swell this line up anymore it will not get past those old valves right there get past it and so so here’s the factory plug so I’ll put that back in there put my hose clamp on it but what I’m gonna do I’m gonna take this plug and I’m gonna make this I’m gonna go the hole through it so this fuel line will fit nice and snug and so that way be a little bit quicker for me and I just put it on there tighten up the hose clamp get on down the road if if ever needed I’m gonna take all this off wrap it up put it in a box and butter Neath RV hope I never need it but if your ever fails at least I have a plan we also need to mention it was a real pain getting off this goodness plug off and this is on from the factory then of course stall the plug on there and the clamp is in that position the screw is pointing straight up of course when they build the chassis there’s no RV sitting on top of it so it’s easy for them to get to but if you try to get to it now it’s going to be a burger because there’s just absolutely no room to get to it so the way I was able to do that let me show you what I used I used this little thing right here it’s got the quarter inch drive it’s got the little hex in a bit that one turn fit into a small ratchet wrench quarter inch drive and then I’ve put me off 5/16 socket on it so by doing that all right then I was able to get up in here with our fingers barely and just like get one click at a time got it off so of course now I’ve got off and put it back in on I’m gonna put the hose clamp toward the bottom so I have the easy access to it there you go see yeah that’s a good shot you can see the intake the fuel tube so I’ll put this on there and put the clamp on it that’s what I’ll do and I’ll have the easy access with a long screwdriver okay didn’t talk about powering the fuel inline fuel pump so what I did I just read me some got me some way of wire got me a couple of these on big battery clamp ons so I just run that under the frame there’s my battery in my little storage box just clamp it on the battery quick and easy and I’ve got power to my fuel pump so makes for a quick connection and then get back on the road if everyone neat yeah I talked about the fuel pump relay a while ago so I’m going to show you where it’s at cover off and inside your box here it will tell you a print at the top corner you see it there it is tough want a fuel pump really so your relay and I’ll just plug it right back no turn on the key okay I have no leaks okay this is my dashboard gauge installed are your so go now this is the FAQ you pump running 62 psi everything looks good and dry under here can you hear that boys you how noisy that pumps are I guess that’s normal years old that’s the sound it makes sound mine backs in your way come to the RV over here I talked about vapor lock and how I experienced it a

couple years ago and so I was trying to figure out troubleshooted I was trying to determine I had vapor lock or I had a fuel pump that was failing so in my experimenting I had with me this is album Arizona I had with me at the time one of those remote thermometers like you put the smaller outside and wirelessly it will give you the temperature so I had one of those with me and I took it and I just tied it about here and on our next little next time I was going to it was still hot 90 degrees I was Martin temperatures and so from right here I was getting like a hundred and fifty degree temperature and so another thing is I figured what what may have been happening on that particular day because I believe is you get higher and altitude the fuel boils at a lower temperature versus at a lower altitude and or sea level anyways so it was my thinking that what was happening with our system the odor I think before 2004 you would have your your fuel line would run up to the fuel rail at the engine pressurize the regulator would be at the fuel rail it would drop the pressure down and then pump the fuel right back to the fuel tank but in doing so and pumping all the way up and all the way back in generally it took all the heat from the engine back to the fuel tank so it kept cycling over and over and you get more and more heat than the fuel and more emissions so I think 2004 they changed the emissions or the laws whatever whoever decided that’s that stuff so that they would make the return loop back at the tank like I showed you earlier at the fuel filter so now the fuel no longer pumps all the way up to the engine and returns all the way back to the tank now it does the loop right there next to the fuel tank with the fuel filter is but in doing so I got thinking about that with this system and this fuel line being so close to the muffler it’s not like that fuels passing by very fast it’s just just whatever the speed injectors are spraying that fuel so it gives that that because that fuel is moving slowly it has enough time to pick up all this heat off this exhaust that’s getting 150 degrees you know and on the day I thought I vapor locked it was like 90 degrees and I was on top of a mountain I don’t know what elevation is there that is high but anyway after I kind of trouble chop that I stopped at a autozone I found this material here you see it back here how much like an asbestos leave well it took this connector loose and slid this over my line and it goes all the way up past the muffler it’s like 2 foot long I think so that helped to keep the heat off that line because that’s what it’s made for it’s made for like racing engines and stuff so oil and some shiny duct tape and ever since I’ve done that I’ll probably put 25,000 miles on it since then and I’ve been out west you know this is 3 years ago my first trip out west and I was out there again last year did about 10,000 miles or so so we have a temp 13,000 miles a year so I do my best to try to keep everything everything but you can see all right around that so you flex all that heat off that fuel line as it’s passing the muffler so that has helped me if you ever had a vapor lock its situation or do you climb in a big hill on a hot day and you just lose power pops and cracks and you pull over to the side this might this might help you also something else I did let me turn around go the other direction oh well let me change this light okay something else I did to help alleviate heat and try to get a little bit better performance from the factory this is a 2005 Winnebago voyage and w24 chassis for my particular model the two pipes it had it came out with into a why why just above the differential and wide together into one pipe that exited out behind the wheel but I’d seen other the RV’s at the same year in the same chassis but they didn’t do that they did just like this they had an individual pipe for each muffler so that’s what I did I went in and you know I just got rid of all that heavy pipe that was going out so far I got rid of it and I thought this might help alleviate some of the heat because we had pipes going up and over and the differential back behind if you close to the fuel tank so and I thought well maybe I had you know maybe help little leave a little back pressure to not worry for sure it did that or not but I got these well I think these are called

mandrel bent elbows so it keeps a nice smooth shot so I got one on each side now so this big 8.14 tech can breathe a little bit better and it does seem to perform well so maybe it helped I think a dating well here’s my little homemade fuel pump back bypass kit I guess you might want to call it it got it all boxed up now and this way I’ll leave it I’ll just put it in the storage compartment novios RV hopefully I’ll never need it but if I do it’s there and I was just going to show you the parts the part numbers I use to make this contraption the fuel pump and the fuel pump I got this part number for the fuel pump is an age 16 and 16 zero to zero Molly’s I think there’s about 79 bucks per fuel pump that’s right then I also have to get me a piece of high pressure line short piece but I got way more nine eaded it’s rated it’s 3/8 in diameter rated at 225 psi so I got that running from here to this connection now this connection here is it was this device right here made by Dorman I think I’ve also got it at O’Reilly’s there’s the part number on one end of it I cut cut it off because I had to use a compression fitting compression fitting right here and on the other end I’ve got this little this little lip so that this pure line being high pressure line someone high-pressure 100 psi guess I wanted it to go over this lip where I could put a clamp in behind it so I knew there’s no possibility of it coming off and leaking there we come down to these fittings there’s a compression fitting that’s makes a tight fitting on this 3/8 steel pipe then I got this fitting here I don’t think I’m sure I think it’s called here’s the number here’s what I got right there there’s elbow fitting oh 6 MP I don’t know exactly what all these means but it means something because and I did when I first put this in I had a slight bit of a leak at these threads so I took it back apart put it some Loctite on it and then tighten the back up I wanted you know you wouldn’t be careful you know and I let it dry really well before I added any feel to the system because you sure don’t want to have any um any kind of pipe dope or anything heading toward your injectors because all this is before the fuel filter anyway so it’s why we catch it but just just don’t go crazy with anything if you guys steal your threads and that’s more than your fitting there’s massive air filter with I keep you got this another compression fitting then you got this you got this o ring fitting they did intern screws right into the fuel part and makes a nice tight seal push your salt also all that video so then oh yeah I didn’t have this other part mate back then this is the part I made it to put on the filler food so you know you’ve got the filler tube there on the side of the fuel tank and I wanted to make a fairly quick easy way to to connect this up so this is just a two and a half hose connector you use like on your drain lines on your sink you got a leak you gotta cut it out scale it back together tube comes with two clamps there’s a just a piece of a threaded PVC I shoved it in there I drilled a hole in it from a fuel line through so this will dump into the filler neck on the side of the fuel tank nice long hose here’s my copper pipe and on the bottom you’ll see I drill a couple holes in the side you know just in case it landed flat smack on the bottom of the tank it could still suck fuel so afterwards that’s all you’ll need and you can just make your own and and then following up here I’m fixing to show you me driving the RV down the road getting it up to 4,000 rpms and everything works just fine okay this is test metal water with my external electric fuel pump put bet with no regulator just up only there’s my psi here

the PSR cruising at 55 miles an hour everything seems to be working really good closed loop a little bit here and I didn’t get warmed up got a couple good heels to pull and get my PMS up and see if it continues to operate hopefully it’ll be okay all is good I had a time to heal a while ago and hit about 4000 rpms it got down to 49 was its lowest so we’ve got a little hill we’re going up now we’ll see how it does about 49 1 p.m. but that’s rare don’t let it be bad okay they just cruising speed what to us right not a permanent solution I think that’s the biggest and I just would also show my few tips if you can see it press box my computer so it’s not like computer has to make up for anything it seems to be working well a lot that I like of our homes