Pre-trip Inspection Checklist for Commercial Trucks

– I’m showed up in my truck here, I’m ready to go to work for the day But I have important piece of business that I need to take care of first Failure to do a proper and thorough pre-trip inspections could have very serious consequences Again, if you’re gonna hold safety as a personal value, make sure you’re taking the time to inspect your equipment, to keep everyone around you safe Okay, the first thing I should really do is as I approached the vehicle, I wanna look underneath, make sure I don’t see any obvious signs of leaks, any coolant or oil, power steering fluid Taking a look at the truck as a whole, making sure it’s not leaning or listing a certain direction Checking my headlights, my grill, making sure all the mirrors are properly mounted here Just doing an overall inspection of the vehicle condition itself Okay, we’re gonna go ahead and start over on the passenger side of the truck here I personally like to start in this area The reality of it is, it doesn’t matter where you start on the vehicle, just as long as you, wherever you start, you go around the entire vehicle and make sure you finish right back where you started so that you’ve inspected every component on this vehicle I wanna go ahead and raise the hood I like to start toward the top of the motor, just taking a visual inspection of everything Now my air filters, all of my hoses, all of my lines, everything’s needs to be properly mounted, not damaged If it holds air fluid, can’t be leaking I can tell I have an air cleaner up here as well This little gauge right here, tells me when my air filter needs to be replaced If this air filter where dirty enough to where it would need to be replaced, this yellow button on the end here would have popped out Again, at no time should you ever make any changes or modifications to the equipment without contacting maintenance first I wanna check my turbo here So as soon as right here, we’ve got our air intake coming here All the hoses and clamps to the turbo are in good condition Turbo itself has all properly mounted, not damaged, not leaking I wanna check my alternator right here to make sure that’s properly mounted, not damaged And I’m taking a look at all the electrical connections going to the alternator right here, making sure they’re all plugged in, securely fastened, and that our alternator belt properly mounted, not damaged There’s no cracking, chafing, fraying, anything like that And that I have no more than three quarters inch of free play when gently pulling on the belt And again, I just wanna take, after checking certain specific components, again, I’m just taking an overall inspection of the entire side of the engine compartment Looking at all the electrical wiring, all the hoses, making sure they’re all properly mounted, not damaged, not leaking We have coolant, oil, power steering, fuel or air So I wanna look for any kinds of those leaks at all Now it’s been raining a lot the last few days, some of the wetness that we do see here is just water, okay And you’re gonna have that, so if you look and you see something leaking or you see something that’s wet, you may actually have to go and get your hands in it, and just feel it If it feels oily or greasy, it’s probably a fluid from your vehicle that feels just wet, it’s more than likely just water Inspecting what I can see at the flame at the moment, making sure that there are no illegal holes or welds Now we’re gonna get into our suspension system, okay And my spring hangers, both the front and the back, checking my shock absorber and shock absorber mounts The shock absorber is properly mounted, not damaged, not leaking and the mounts are properly mounted, not damaged I wanna check my U-bolts here, connecting my suspension to my axle Got to check my brake hose, make sure it’s about the mounted, not damaged, not leaking, and not rubbing or chafing against anything I wanna check my brake chamber, properly mounted, not damaged, not leaking Wanna go ahead and check my slack adjuster, make sure that this is properly mounted, not damaged And on a regular service brake chamber, I can go ahead and check the free play, its like I can have no more than one inch of free play Part of Roehl’s policy is we want you having no more than 5/8 to 3/4 of an inch of free play Stick the handle of your hammer down in there and put it in between the slack adjuster and the top bolt, on the brake chamber, and just pull it up Now, we’ve got pretty close to that five, but we’re still within compliance So make sure that the cotter pins are properly secured in there, and that they’re in good condition If they’re real rusty and look like they may fail, it might be time to get a new pin in there On wheels that have dust covers, you have to inspection holes So what you wanna do, take your mirror, shine a light into the mirror, and now you can see how you can look in there and see the brake linings And just look around the whole drum itself, making sure that we don’t see any obvious signs of damage, any cracks You wanna go ahead and inspect the inside sidewall of our tire We wanna go ahead and inspect the outside sidewall of our tire, all the way around And tire tread face, is all the whole surface of the tire here, tread surface of the tire, making sure that we have no abrasions, bulges or cuts anywhere on the tire And you wanna make sure that you have at least four 30 seconds tread depth on all major tread groups Now, I’ve heard all kinds of stories over the years, you take a penny and stick a penny in there, upside down and if you can see the top of Lincoln’s head, (indistinct) you have less than four 30 seconds

We’ll go down to Napa, Carquest, Advance Auto Parts, wherever you do your shopping, spend $1.99 and go buy a tread depth gauge You take a tread depth gauge, you stick it flat on the tire You push down on the top of the gauge, what that does is push the pin down into the tread I see that 10, 11, 11, 10 We have nine 30 seconds of tread depth on this tire We get that high pitched ringing sound there when we tap the tire, we can tell that the tire isn’t flat But periodically every other day, every third day or so, you’d probably wanna be checking your air pressure, making sure that the tire has the adequate amount of air pressure in it So you’ve got to look and see what type of tire you have, we have Goodyear brand here So I’d wanna look at my driver reference guide and find out what the adequate amount of air pressure is that they want me to maintain in the tire Next, we wanna check our rim, make sure that the rim is properly mounted There is no illegal holes or welds, that we don’t have any cracks in between the lugs or anything We wanna inspect all the lug nuts, make sure they’re all properly mounted, not damaged An indication of a loose lug nut would be a start pat and rusty coming out from behind the nut, indicating that there is enough gap for water to get in between the rim and the nut The other thing you may see is you may see, shiny threads out here on the end of the lug If you see shiny threads on the end of the lug, what that’s telling you is that the rim is actually getting reamed out and the nut is actually turning itself in Next, you wanna go ahead and check our hub oil seal I wanna wipe this off all the way around If you had a leaking hub seal, you’d notice a star pattern of hub oil across the entire rim, okay And we wanna also check and make sure that we have the adequate oil level inside the hub I wanna inspect my tie rod connecting to my steer arm here Now we can go ahead and move over to the driver’s side of the engine compartment Again, I can’t tell you what half of these components are, but I can go ahead and grab and make sure that they’re all properly mounted, not damaged Making sure that our coolant reservoir is properly mounted, not damaged, not leaking That we are between the minimum and maximum Go ahead and check our power steering reservoir right here, making sure that it is between the maximum hot minimum cold Again, I wanna do an overall inspection of every single one of my hoses on this side, all the clamps, any support brackets, all of the air and electrical lines coming through, making sure everything’s all properly mounted, not damaged Now we’re gonna go ahead and check our water pump So we can see our lower radiator coil coming out of this side It comes up here, and runs right to our water pump Checking the belt again, cause this one’s belt-driven no more than three quarter inch free play, checking and look at my fan, making sure none of the fan blades are broken Taking a look inside at the radiator, making sure all the radiator fins are in good condition I don’t see any major or obvious damage to the radiator or any leaks I wanna go ahead and check every one of these braided steel lines here, make sure they’re all properly mounted, not damaged, not leaking So we’re gonna go ahead and pull our dipstick, wipe it off the first time We insert it And pull it out and check the oil level We can see the oil level is between the hash marks here Once I wipe this off, I’ll be able to tell about where it was It looked like the oil level was about halfway between the minimum and the maximum So that would be proper operating level To add oil, you wanna add one gallon at a time, okay So, you’re best to wait until you’re at the minimum and that add a full gallon, and that’ll take you right back up to the maximum line Starting here with my steering shaft, okay Properly mounted, not damaged That connects to my steering box, which is properly mounted, not damaged, not leaking And now we’re gonna go ahead and inspect our steering linkage Steering linkage consists of my pitman arm, which is connected to my drag link, which is connected to the upper steering arm, which connects down, behind the wheel here down, back to the lower steering arm And then the lower steering arm connects to your tie rod, which goes across to the other side and connects to your other steer arm on the passenger side They’re all connected at the ball joints and you have to make sure that they’re securely fastened with the castle nut and the cotter key Checking my springs and my spring mounts, properly mounted, not damage My shock absorber, shock absorber mounts, properly mounted, not damaged Shock absorber is not leaking Just like on the other side, I’ve got to check my brake hose, my brake chamber, my slack adjuster I wanna go ahead and take my mirror and my flashlight again Look in my inspection holes on the top and the bottom, making sure that I have at least one quarter inch of brake line Now I wanna go ahead and inspect, the tire again Gotta check the inside, outside sidewall and the entire tread face About 14/32 seconds on this tire Remember also that steer tires must be virgin rubber, you can never run a recap on a steer tire, okay It has to be a fresh tire Okay And here again, we have 105 PSI in this tire Again, we’re gonna inspect our rim, probably mounted, not damaged There’s no illegal holes or welds, is not cracked in between the lugs We’re gonna inspect our lug nuts,

that they’re all present and securely fastened Again, an indication of a loose lug would be a start pat and rusty coming from behind the nut Or we may even see shiny threads out on, the end of the lug here Still wanna go ahead and inspect our hub oil seal on this side You’d also wanna be sure to check and make sure that your air compressor is properly mounted, not damaged And that the braided line going to the compressor is properly mounted, not damaged and not rubbing or chafing up against your frame And again, just doing an overall look of the entire vehicle again, for any of the five leaks oil, coolant, power steering, fuel or air And you wanna make sure you go ahead and latch the hood right away so you don’t forget And this equipment was last inspected, March of 2012 That means it is good through March of 2013 I’m gonna check my mirrors, making sure they’re properly mounted, not damaged Clean, driver’s door, properly mounted, not damaged and working, the hinges are in good working order And the door seal is in good working order I wanna go ahead and inspect my steps, making sure they’re clean and free of debris, able to support my weight I would wanna check our diesel exhaust fluid tank, making sure that that’s promptly mounted not damaged, that the cap is securely tight Our auxiliary battery pack here I wanna take a look inside of your battery box here, making sure that you don’t have any excessive corrosion on any of the terminals, that all your wires are tight You wanna go ahead and check our fuel tank itself, making sure the tank is properly mounted, not damaged, that we don’t see any obvious signs of fuel leaks I wanna inspect the cap, make sure that the cap is properly mounted, not damaged It has the rubber gasket in place to prevent any spilling and that the chain is securely mounted inside of the tank I wanna go ahead and look at my side box here 10 pound BC fire extinguisher And to know that it’s fully charged, you wanna make sure that the needle is in the green Wanna make sure that the fire extinguisher is not only rated for A, but we need to make sure we’re rated for B and C as well B is flammable liquids, C is electrical fire or electrical equipment Typically located in the red container on your side box and pull one out, one, two, three Three emergency triangles And to set these up, you just lift the tops like this, snap it together There’s a lot of components underneath this truck that we need to be able to inspect I can see all of my air and electrical lines that are attached to the frame here, making sure they’re all properly mounted, not damaged, that the airlines aren’t leaking If something looks out of place, it probably is So, you just wanna make sure everything seems to be mounted where it should be Making sure that all the securement brackets are in place and they’re not allowing these airlines and electrical lines to rubber or chafe against anything I wanna go ahead and check, inspect my drive shaft here, making sure that the U-bolts are properly fastened, okay Let me go ahead and inspect my exhaust, a sign leaking exhaust would be a soot mark at the leak So if I see any black soot, anywhere along this pipe that tells me I’ve got an exhaust leak here We’ve got a couple of small air tanks up here, I’ve my main air tank to inspect here now So I’m gonna go ahead and open the petcock here And, I’m gonna put my hand in front of it I don’t see or feel any moisture coming out so I’m gonna close it right back up As I start working my way out from underneath the vehicle, again, I want to inspect my second drive shaft here, looking at the U-joint, making sure that the bolts are all tight, and securely fastened And I wanna inspect, looking at my fuel tanks here, making sure they’re in good shape, probably monitored, not damaged, not leaking Inspect the rest of my exhaust pipe here, making sure that it is firmly or properly mounted and secure And again that I’m not seeing any soot marks anywhere on this pipe And again, just continuing to inspect all my internal electrical lines in the frame as I go back And I wanna inspect the U-joint going into the differential here, making sure all the bolts are tight I wanna make sure I don’t have a differential leak here anywhere I wanna inspect my brake chambers on my front axle properly mounted, not damaged, not leaking Front springs and spring hangers I wanna inspect all my brake hoses here, making sure they’re properly mounted, not damaged Zip ties are another thing you can carry with you, they’re very cheap, very easy to put on, take a new zip tie and put a zip tire on that So I don’t have to worry about my airlines rubbing and chafing against the frame Seeing my slack adjusters behind the brake Now, this is a spring brake chamber So again, I can’t tell how much free play I got because the spring breaks are already applied So again, what I’m looking for is no less than 90 degrees from the push rod to the arm of the slack adjuster, okay Checking the cotter pins through the crevices, making sure they’re seated and placed properly and secure, and that they’re in good shape, not in jeopardy of rusting through or rusting out The front drive axle and that all the mounting hardware is secure

Checking out my front airbags, is properly mounted, not damaged, not leaking All of my air and electrical lines coming into the center of the track here, making sure they’re all properly mounted, not damaged, not leaking Check all my brake hoses, my brake chambers, making sure the slack adjusters are properly mounted, not damaged, no less than a 90 degree angle here again Now if your truck does have an APU here, we’ve got another motor to inspect again Make sure that the APU itself is properly mounted, is not loose Okay, we can see the oil levels all the way to the top of the dipstick If I did need to add oil, obviously this is where I would fill Just taking an overall inspection, making sure I don’t see anything loose or out of place I wanna make sure that the belts properly mounted, not damaged, no more than three quarter inch of free play Okay and again here, I’ll just be inspecting I’m gonna inspect my cab shocks, my cab airbags, both sides, making sure they’re properly mounted, not damaged, not leaking, okay Just taking a look at my air and electrical lines properly mounted, not damaged Checking the AC unit making sure it’s properly mounted, not damaged and secure And again, along this side, taking a look at the fuel cap and checking, making sure that the rubber gasket is in place and that the chain is secured to the tank and the cap Checking the steps here, able to support my weight And, passenger’s side door, it’s probably mounted, not damaged and works Door seals in good condition all the way around And that the passenger side mirrors properly mounted, not damaged Now, as you can see, we finished right where we started So that means I’ve gone around this entire vehicle, looked at every component on the vehicle, made sure it was properly mounted, not damaged And if it held air fluid, it’s not leaking Pre-trips are not a clean job, you’re gonna get dirty And if you’re properly inspecting your equipment, this is what you should look like Go buy a pair of coveralls, something to keep your regular clothes clean So you’re not finding yourself getting dirty every day, but if you’re gonna hold safety as a value and you’re gonna properly and thoroughly inspect every item on this truck, this is what it takes A full pre-trip inspection doesn’t take this long, if I’m just going along and looking at every item, I know what I’m supposed to be looking for Making sure it’s properly mounted, not damaged, not leaking A full per-trip inspection really doesn’t take you that long, you’ve got to take the time to do it, okay Laziness, complacency on pre-trip inspections, you might get away with it your entire life, but the one time you have a component on this vehicle fail, it has the potential to kill somebody I wanna start turning out in front of the trailer, pretty much when the nose of my truck starts lining up with the first edge of the trailer And before I turn off to my right, I’ve got to check all three of my mirrors Make sure there’s no traffic coming to my right, turn signal on And everything’s safe to turn, I can go ahead and turn off in front of it Yeah, I would get myself squared out in front of it I’m gonna set my brakes, go ahead, get out and look at this point Make sure my fifth wheel is tipped back The risk you run is you could run the fifth wheel right into the front of the trailer So, always make sure, always verify that the fifth wheel is tilted down to the back like that No debris between my trailer and myself So I’m gonna go ahead and back up to this thing (truck honing) Most tractors are 96 inches wide and trailers are usually 102 So I wanna have about three inches of trailer overhanging the outside of each of my drive tires on both sides The rear drive axle is pretty much centered right underneath the front of the trailer I’m gonna go and set my brakes and turn the truck off and go out and make sure that the trailer heights is a proper height Three points of contact, getting in and out of the truck And now I wanna check the height of my trailer Now here’s an example of a trailer that, is a little bit too high, okay The trailer should hit the approach part of the fifth wheel here This trailer because it’s as high as it’s, this isn’t gonna hit until we get up to about here If the locking jaw is not able to seat properly, into this cutout part of the kingpin here, if the trailer is too high, that wedge might go across this bottom part of the shank

and that’s what they would call a high hood A locking wedge goes across the fifth wheel here behind the kingpin So if they’re locking wedge isn’t seated inside the cutout part of the shank, there would be nothing to hold that kingpin from hopping right out of the fifth wheel So I’m gonna go ahead and lower this trailer down a little bit Now, if I see right down that trailer apron, I can see it’s gonna hit toward the top side of that first approach So the first thing I wanna inspect when I inspect my trailer, I wanna make sure that the annual inspection is up to date This was last inspected in March of 2012, means is good through March of 2013 You may find yourself picking up a piece of equipment that is beyond the annual inspection date If you find this situation, you need to call maintenance and get direction as to what to do Looking in the bubble here, I’m gonna make sure that my trailer registration is inside of there, okay So what I would probably do is go ahead, let the permit department know I probably wanna get a new registration for this one This one’s pretty much just about shot, getting very difficult to read Here I have a situation where the glad hand grommet is in very, very poor condition here This is one I’d probably wanna replace, and making sure the electric connections look good inside no corrosion, no major corrosion in there Making sure that everything’s secure Okay, I’ve got another engine to check here Wanna be just taking an overall look at the engine, all the hoses, wiring, making sure everything’s properly mounted, not damaged, that none of the hoses are leaking Gotta check my belt here, okay Probably mounted, not damaged Everything looks in good condition we’ve got another belt here to check Again, I wanna make sure I’m inspecting the oil, checking the oil level, making sure that the oil level is up to the full line Checking the battery in the corner here and making sure I don’t see any excessive corrosion on the battery terminals Go ahead and close it back up I’ll go ahead and inspect my kingpin, make sure it’s properly mounted, not damaged It’s not twisted, bent, cracked, anything like that The trailer apron here is this entire steel plate This is what actually supports the weight of the load, so I wanna make sure there’s no illegal holes or welds Checking all my electrical lines up in the front here, making sure that the electrical lines, are securely fastened, so they’re not loosely rubbing against stuff and causing chafing As I continue back, checking all my frame and cross members here, looking for any broken welds, any illegal holes or welds on the cross members themselves, cross members do have a tendency to, you know, maybe the welds would break right here along the edge of the frame, okay I’ve seen trey cross members that have been hanging, not completely broken away and hanging down below the frame of the trailer Wanna inspect my landing gear, making sure that the all the landing gear operates and supports the legs, the dolly pads, that everything’s properly mounted, not damaged, no obvious signs of damage Anything bent, cracked, twisted on a reefer unit here You got to inspect the fuel tank, make sure the fuel tanks properly mounted, not damaged, not leaking Fuel tank straps are in good condition and that the rubber spacers are in good shape So we don’t get metal to metal contact here, contains the rubber gasket inside of the cap fuel tank here So I know, I don’t have to worry about filling it up You wanna make sure you inspect that and check that before you would leave I wanna make sure that our side clearance light and reflectors are properly mounted, not damaged I wanna go ahead and inspect my air hoses, making sure that the, a couple of different things here, making sure the spring hanger is in good condition Also wanna inspect the airlines all the way through here, just make sure I don’t see any chafes, any holes or abrasions in the line I’ve got to inspect the air and electrical lines coming through them Now they’re tucked up into the trailer here for the most part I see I’ve got a loose clamp here, okay Now this clamp is designed to keep, this hose in a particular spot without the clamp there, this airline could rub up against this piece of metal here all day long, and it doesn’t take long to rub a hole through that or take their line, that would be a violation As I’m underneath here, I’m also going ahead and taking a look at all of my break All four, I can see all four of my brake chambers here, properly mounted, not damaged, not leaking, all my brake hoses Again, I have the proper protectant between the hoses None of the hoses are rubbing up against the axles or rubbing against the springs here Any chafe on an airline would be a violation, blue airline here going from brake chamber to brake chamber, you’ve got to inspect that and make sure that’s in good condition So here are my airbags are properly mounted, not damaged Shock absorbers are properly mounted, not damaged, not leaking My suspension as a whole is all properly mounted, not damaged, okay Frame and cross members again, airlines up inside the frame here Making sure that the lines aren’t chafed Here’s your brake linings, have at least one quarter inch of brake lining, they’re not damaged or cracked The brake drum itself is properly mounted, not damaged Properly mounted, not damaged, I have at least one quarter inch of brake lining on both the top and the bottom Now I’m gonna check between my tires for any debris here

Also gonna check the front side of the tires and my inside sidewalls outside sidewalls, making sure that there are no abrasions, bulges or cuts on the tire Making sure the rim is properly mounted, not damaged, that there’s no damage to the outside deed That someone hasn’t hit a curb and wreck the rim Lug nuts are all present securely fastened Okay, the next thing I wanna check then in would be, my hub oil seal Now this one has a little bit of weeping going on, you can see how dirty this thing is So we wanna get this thing cleaned off here, that’ll allow us to see the oil level inside here and make sure that we have the adequate amount of hub oil The center vent is designed to relieve the pressure in there as the oil and the hub heats up If that is plugged up, that’s the reason we had all the oil pushed out around the seal there and that’s where we got all the weeping from So you can take a paperclip, a toothpick, and shove that through there and clean that center vent out Missing a valve stem cover, right That would actually be a DOT violation Now, if we look into this through the hole here, we can see the the inner valve stem does have the cover on it Make sure you always carry extra valve stem covers with you Thump the tires And I can hear that kind of high pitch ringing sound that tells me that the tires aren’t inflated If I had a flat tire, you’d hear just kind of a dead thud Inspecting my mud flaps, both sides, making sure they’re properly mounted, not damaged And now from the backside of my trailer, I wanna inspect my rear suspension, my rear airbags, okay My rear shock absorbers on both sides, checking any of the brake hoses coming off from the rear of the air tank up there, okay Rear leveler valve in good condition And now I can see all four of my slack adjusters from this end This angle, right in here, you don’t want that to be really less than 90 degrees The other thing you’re looking for is to make sure that your cotter pins are in You lose one of these cotter pins and your clevis pin can fall off and you have no brakes on this axle I would probably get ahold of my maintenance department or breakdown department Let them know that I have this in the tire that I’m gonna go ahead and pull it Obviously I’m gonna have, to get the tire repaired somewhere I wanna expect all my door hinges, make sure they’re properly mounted, not damaged Looking up, inspecting my top clearance lights, making sure they’re properly mounted, not damaged That all of my rear trailer lights are in good condition, properly mounted, not damaged My ICC bumpers in good condition, properly mounted, not damaged, no illegal holes or welds That I have a license plate, that matches the registration Looking at the door seal all the way around the door, making sure that that’s in proper condition that’s it’s not leaking rain or weather into the freight I wanna make sure that my door ties are securely fastened so that when I do open the doors, I can make sure there I can secure them open And I wanna take the time to inspect the inside of the trailer Especially on reefer trailers, I wanna make sure I look at this inside door seal here Then I wanna inspect the inside of the trailer, no damage to the walls I wanna inspect the floor and especially on a reefer, I need to make sure that these floor grates are clean and free of debris, that’s what keeps the air circulating through here Go on inspecting the side walls all the way around making sure the sidewalls have been cleaned or wiped down And, I wanna inspect the tarp here, when you load a reefer trailer, nothing should touch this tarp That’s what again, keeps the airflow coming down through the entire trailer Was a piece of debris in the wash-out hole there Again, you don’t want this getting into, mixed in with your (indistinct) grade products or you don’t want that falling down through and puncturing your tire Very, very important, anytime you close up a trailer, always look up and make sure that top latch latched And behind the latch, so that the top of the door is latched properly as well That the door tie back latches in good shape Trailer sidewall, reflective tape on at least 50% of the perimeter Properly mounted, not damaged, able to support the weight of the load And then inspecting the front of the trailer itself Making sure there’s no dirt or debris caught inside the throat of the fifth wheel here Locking handle is in the open position here When we couple up, what I’m gonna use is, it’s called PAL Check my pin first, then I’m gonna hook up my airlines, and then I’m gonna go ahead and raise my landing gear And I’m gonna start to slowly back underneath the trailer Now, as I back underneath it, I can see that the fifth wheel did kinda lift up the front of the trailer here My alignment looks real good, I’m gonna back up slowly till I feel the kingpin bump And, now what I’m gonna do, I felt the kingpin bumped the front of the fifth wheel, I’m gonna put the truck into first gear now and just do a little tug test against the trailer to make sure that the locking arm did close and that the wedge went behind the kingpin And I’m gonna go ahead and set my brake, make sure the truck is in neutral, release the clutch, shut the power off And now we’re gonna get out and do our PAL, pin, airlines, landing gear

So push that in tightly, make sure that’s all the way across just because his handle is in, does not guarantee you that I am properly coupled though, what I need to do is get underneath this truck and look up into the throat of the fifth wheel Remember, when you’re coupling up, it’s always blue to blue, red to red Now, some of the, there’s not much red paint left on this one So if a driver’s confused as to which airline goes where, your blue line or your service line, and you can see all the glad hand is actually marked with an S there for service, your blue, your service line is always the inside airline, okay So what you wanna do is start this at about a 90 degree angle with the other glad hand and just roll it on to each other Then I wanna go ahead and hook up my electrical line, emergency air line This is like a cheese grater, and over time you’ll rub holes right through this protective coating and you’ll rub holes right through your electrical lines Make sure I hang this up a little bit higher So we’ve done our pin We’ve hooked up our airlines The last thing I have to do is raise my landing gear So that’s my PAL, pin, airlines, landing gear One more thing I have to do before I hit the road I did inspect this trailer, but I haven’t done a light check yet Now that my air and electrical lines are hooked up, I can go ahead and do a light inspection So I’m gonna go ahead and turn my lights on now so that I can inspect my trailer running lights as I go around And I’m also gonna turn my four-ways on – [Corey] With the key on, by depressing the work light switch here for five seconds, you will activate exterior lamp check So the driver can do is walk around and do all his light checks The only thing it will not turn on are the brake lights – Remember when we were inspecting our tires, we inspected the fronts, the tops and the backs We weren’t able to see the bottom side of the tires, where are we? So what I wanna do here, I’m just gonna roll the head a couple of feet I’m gonna set my brake, shut the truck off and go back and inspect the side of the tire that was on the ground at that time, and make sure that I don’t have any low tread issues or flat spot issues or damaged tire issues So, I’m just gonna have to put the truck into first gear, just roll ahead, just a couple of feet here, I’m out there And now the bottom side of the tire that was on the ground when we first inspected is now sitting up at the top So I wanna run around real quick, run around the entire vehicle and then do a visual inspection of all the tires, one more time Once we’ve completed the outside portion of our pre-trip, we’ve completed our light inspection The last thing we need to do is an in-cab inspection You wanna go ahead and release the trailer spring brakes, and I’m gonna tug gently against the track to see that the track is holding in place, okay And it is, so that tells me that the track spring brakes are functioning properly Next, I would test the trailer’s spring brakes by releasing the tractor, toking gently against the trailer to see that, the trailer for spring breaks are holding us in place, and they are, okay Now I’m gonna go ahead and release both the track and trailer spring breaks You have the truck in first gear at the moment I’m just gonna roll the head slightly now, easing the clutch out I’m gonna push the clutch in and once I started rolling, and apply the foot service pedal and if the unit stops, I know that all my service brakes are functioning properly So that’s your brake system test The next test we are going to do is our air system test I’m gonna go ahead and let the vehicle, the air system charged back up to 120 PSI, okay Leaving it in gear will make sure that the truck isn’t gonna roll forward or backward on me while I’m doing this test You can see that our air gauges were about 120, so I’m gonna go ahead and shut the unit off Now we wanna do an air system test There’s three things I need to check my air system for I need to check for leaks I need to check and make sure that my lower warning devices are functioning properly And I need to check and make sure that our emergency spring brakes are functioning properly First thing I need to do to test for leaks, make sure the truck is in gear, here’s the gear and I’m gonna be releasing my tractor and trailer spring breaks, and I don’t wanna be rolling forward or backward when I’m doing this So I’m gonna go ahead and release the track and trailer emergency brakes After the initial air loss, I’m gonna time for one minute, and in this minute I can lose no more than three PSI The needles didn’t move at all, so we lost zero PSI, that means we’re compliant One more leak test I have to do is called the applied leak test To do this, I’m going to apply firm pressure to the brake pedal and hold for one minute After the initial air loss again, I’m gonna time for one minute, starting now And, in this minute, we can lose no more than four PSI Okay, the minute it was up

And after that timing for one minute, again, the gauges did not move but also we lost zero PSI on the applied leak test, so therefore we’re compliant When I firm the brake pedal, it’s gonna deplete the air in the system As the air in the system depletes, my alarm should come on or my lower wanting devices should come on at 60 PSI or above, okay So we’re gonna start pumping the brake pedal (hissing noise) (beep) Okay We can hear our audible alarm and we can see our visual alarm, the brake air visual warning there And they came on at 68 to 69 PSI, okay And the last test I’m gonna do is a test to make sure that my emergency spring breaks were working I’m gonna continue to pleading the air in the system And again, as the air pressure in the system drops, my spring breaks should apply or my button should pop out between 20 and 40 PSI (barton pops) Okay, the trailer’s spring break popped out at 33 PSI and (barton pops) Your track spring break applied at 20 PSI, so we are compliant I’m gonna go ahead and start the vehicle back up, so the air system has time to charge back up (truck engine starts) And again, before letting you off the clutch, again, we always verify that we’re in neutral and then I’m gonna continue on with the rest of my in-cab inspection I wanna go out and check my oil pressure, a normal operating range for your oil pressure should be 20 to 60 PSI This gauge reads in 25 PSI increments So, we’re about 32 or 33 PSI there Normal operating range should be 160 to about 210 degrees for fuel tanks or an adequate amount of fuel to do the job we need to do When the truck is running, normal operating range should be 13 to 14.5 volts so we’re within well within operating range there We’re watching for the rate of air pressure build, and once the air pressure does get built up, normal operating range should be 90 to 120 PSI So, we’re still building our pressure obviously, we’ll come back and check these after, they’ve built up all the way I wanna check my tech is functioning properly, my speedometer, obviously we’re not moving, but I wanna make sure that we’re, the speedometer reads in miles per hour and kilometers per hour because we do international business And once we start going down the road, I’ll have to look down and make sure that the speedometer is functioning properly I wanna go ahead and check my light indicators while I’m waiting Is my right turn signal indicator, there’s my left signal There’s our four way flasher indicators, and I’m gonna turn my hazards off now And we wanna check our high beam and low beam indicator Now to check my steering wheel plate, I’m going to turn the steering wheel all the way to the left and then release it I can now go ahead and look out my window and I can see my front steer tire So I’m gonna move the steering wheel back and forth, I’m watching my steer tire move I’m gonna start making the motion on the steering wheel, smaller and smaller until I see my steer tire stop, right there Now, this amount of free play that I have left in the wheel here I have about, three quarters of an inch of free play there On the 20″ steering wheel, you’re allowed up to two inches, so we’re well within compliance there Now I wanna go ahead and check my horns (trailer horns) Check the seat horn, we’ve checked our air horn, okay I wanna go ahead and check my mirrors, making sure the mirrors are properly mounted, not damage That they’re clean free of debris and adjusted for me I wanna check my windshield, make sure that’s properly mounted, not damaged, that there’s no cracks I wanna check my heater and defroster, okay And the heater vent is functioning properly Here we go, now we can feel the air coming out of it and see the paper lift up there So I don’t mind my defroster is functioning properly as well I wanna make sure that I have at least one to two inches of free play From the resistance on down is the working clutch and then all the way to the floor is a clutch break I wanna make sure that my clutch brake is functioning properly by trying to put the vehicle into gear My brake pedal is in good shape Our throttle pedal is in good shape I wanna check to make sure my gear shift is in good condition, that it’s properly mounted, not damaged That the splitter is functioning properly I wanna check out my gearshift boots here, make sure that this thing is properly mounted, not damaged And that there are no holes in it that would leak exhaust fumes into the cab I wanna make sure that my seatbelt is properly mounted, not damaged That it latches and unlatches properly And then lastly, I wanna go ahead and check my safety and emergency equipment Okay, so we’re heading up to the maintenance shop here, we just gonna stop very quickly, run in and get the valve stem covers that we need

Hey Mike – Hey – I wonder if I could get some valve stem covers from you – You bet – Okay, I need a half a dozen of them, please It’s important that you make sure the tandem slide on your trailer, every time you pick up a new trailer You’re also gonna wanna make sure your tandems slide, because you’re gonna have to worry about legalizing your load, making sure your tandem axles weights are correct, and that your kingpin setting is correct Making sure you’re not over linked between the kingpin and the center of the rear axle So, to slide your axles, we’re gonna demonstrate how to do it right now If you’re lucky enough to have an air assist trailer like this, you take and you pull the air assist button out, and that’s where the pins in We can see that the rear pin went in and all we just wanna come around and check the other side here Rear pin went in, and the front pin went in I’m gonna leave the trailer brake set, I’m gonna release the track brake, and I’m just gonna move the trailer over top of the trailer tandems If I need to move the trailer tandems forward, I need to push the trailer backward over top of the trailer tandems What I’m actually doing here is I’m moving the trailer over top of the tandem axles I’m gonna go ahead and put the truck in reverse again And I’m gonna back up to the appropriate setting On every one of our van trailers, you’ll see an A, B, C, or D marking A is 40 feet from the kingpin to the center of the rear axle B would be 41 feet from the kingpin to the center of the rear C would be 42 feet from the kingpin to the center of the rear axle And D would be 43 feet from the kingpin to the center of the rear axle Another way to look at it is D is seven feet from the rear of the trailer C is eight feet from the rear of the trailer B is nine feet from the rear of the trailer and A is 10 feet from the rear of the trailer If I’m taking a load out to California, California has a 40 foot length requirement You can be no longer than 40 feet from the kingpin to the center of the rear axle So whatever requirement of state has, I can always be shorter than that requirement, but I can never be longer So after you get done loading your customer, what you’re gonna wanna do is set it to the shortest setting that you need to be on and go scale up the load and make sure all your axle weights, are appropriate and legal on that setting If you can’t get your trailer weight legal on the A setting, probably gonna have to send you back to the customer to get reloaded So I’m gonna go ahead and back up until I think I’m close Then, and I have to set my brake If I’m within one pinhole of the C setting, I can go ahead and release that button and let the pin start to come out And then whether I need to move it forward or backward, just a little bit Once I hit the appropriate hole, the pins will pop right out into the hole and I’ll be locked into the C setting If I’m more than one pin hole off of C, I’m gonna have to come back up here, move it forward or backward, however many feet or inches I’ve got to move it All right, so I can see this as the hole that I wanna be in now So I’m gonna go ahead and release the button (humming noise) And I’m gonna demonstrate how to properly uncouple or unhooked from your trailer This is going to be just the reverse of coupling up Remember when we couple it’s PAL, pan, airlines, landing gear When you uncouple, it’s just the reverse, landing gear first, then the airlines, then the pin So let’s go ahead lower our landing gear When I’m lowering my landing gear, what I wanna do is leave the landing pad sitting about half an inch to an inch off the ground I don’t wanna drop the trailer on the ground very hard, but I do want the trailer to come down as it slides back on the fifth wheel that will, again, that will tip that fifth, the back end of the fifth wheel, it’ll tip it down for me and get me prepared for my next couple Next thing we have to do is disconnect our airlines Grab the fifth wheel release handle and firmly pull out, until it locks in the out position And just take a look up inside the sort of the fifth wheel now to see that I have removed the locking welds from behind the kingpin Okay, at this point, I’m ready to go ahead and pull the truck out from underneath the trailer Because I’ve stopped at the frame of the track

is still underneath the trailer at this, we did have a problem with our landing gear At least the track would hold the trailer up and I’d still be able to get underneath it Once I’m confident that the landing gear is gonna support and hold the weight to the load I can go off and pull out and do what I have to go on doing what I have to do next I’m gonna ahead and run this thing through the wash bay You know, when you’re doing your pre-trip inspections, your in-route inspections or your post-trip inspections, it’s a good idea to carry a basic tool set with you A small set of wrenches, some properly bit screwdrivers I think it’s number 25 or possibly number 30, will change most of the clearance lights on the truck or trailer And if you’re not quite sure how to do it, don’t just take it upon yourself and try it, without knowing exactly what you’re doing You’re not sure what you’re doing, again, call breakdown, call maintenance and get some guidance on how to do it properly One thing I have to do, and this is critical, you make sure you do this every time before using the automatic wash space Very important that we take our CB antennas off If you forget to take your CB antennas off, I promise you it’ll break them right in half Okay, now we’re ready to go ahead and swipe our card And again, what you’ll have to do is use your Roehl assigned access card You scan your card here, enter And washer is now enabled, it’s proceed to start, and we can see that the green light to saying enter slowly has come on here Okay Now I’m gonna go ahead and proceed into the truck wash And you know, I’m coming out of a building here, kinda blind, I’m just gonna tap the horn as I start to proceed out here just to maybe let anybody, any pedestrians, or personal cars or another truck even Lets someone give someone a heads up that I’m proceeding out here cause I can’t see around the building at the moment Then constantly scanning back and forth, watching, seeing everything that’s happening in the yard, it’s part of knowing what’s happening (track engine revs)