LIPとマッハ2000 LIP and Mach 2000

Hello everyone This time, I will introduce a watch with a slightly different design It is Mach 2000 of French watch brand LIP The Mach 2000 isn’t just a name for a watch, it’s also a word for a series This watch is the Mach 2000 Cases that are often used in general wrist watches have a round or square shape This is the case for 90% of watches sold There are barrel type and polygon type, but not so many What they all have in common is that the cases are symmetrical On the other hand, the Mach 2000 is a left-right asymmetric case It is a case with a unique shape like a circle and a square attached together Furthermore, the reason why the Mach 2000 looks like a weird wristwatch is due to the round parts on the crown and buttons These two Mach 2000s are also red, blue, and yellow round buttons It’s very colorful, like gumball or china marble (China Marble is the name of traditional Japanese sweets) In addition to these colorful types, there is also the Mach 2000, which has a black ball with a reduced tint However, when it comes to the Mach 2000, this colorful type is still a staple To those who are not familiar with watches, it may look like a strange and evil watch But that is not the case. It is a famous model that anyone familiar with watches to some extent knows Even if you hear that, you may not be able to believe it I’ve never met anyone wearing a Mach 2000 in town Although I rarely get to meet them, there should be few people who love watches and have never seen or heard of the Mach 2000 This time we will introduce the Mach 2000 and the LIP brand that created it The history of the LIP company is magnificent Furthermore, it is a legendary story that LIP asked eight designers to survive At the end of this video, we take an analytical look at the design of the Mach 2000 Not only people who like watches, but also people who are not interested in watches should definitely watch this video Especially recommended for people who like history and are interested in the field of product design So let’s get started LIP was founded in 1867 in Besancon, France The founder is Emmanuel Lipman The company name was originally Contour Lippmann Instead of watches and pocket watches, at that time we were producing wall clocks and table clocks Around 1900, we started making in-house made movements and have grown steadily In 1908, the brand name LIP was registered as a trademark Early LIP success seems to have been largely due to the skillful marketing campaigns and guarantees in place In the old days, watches were purchased by the watchmakers themselves and sold, and the watchmakers were responsible for the guarantee On the other hand, LIP fixes the selling price, and creates a mechanism for guaranteeing LIP LIP has developed a very modern distribution network LIP is a company that has made various advanced efforts. This story is one example This is followed by World War I and World War II The company name will be changed to LIP in the early 1930s of the interwar period

By that time, LIP had become the largest watchmaker in France In 1933, the brand’s representative movement T18 was developed The T18 is both a movement name and a wristwatch model name In 1948 after the war, France’s Charles De Gaulle presented T18 to Winston Churchill as a thank you for helping to liberate France From this episode, you can see that LIP was a watchmaker that became a symbol of France Since then, LIP has taken a leading role in the development of watches Since 1936, I have been researching and developing electric timepieces, even though I was interrupted by the war Electric watches use batteries, but they are not quartz watches It is a mechanism that uses a battery to power the balance used in mechanical wristwatches It is a transitional model that changes from mechanical type to quartz type The electric wristwatch was completed in 1952 and LIP has given it to US President Eisenhower However, this electric wristwatch was not sold immediately It was only put on the market in 1958 The world’s first electric wrist watch is the Ventura from Hamilton, USA A uniquely designed wristwatch, a famous model loved by Elvis Presley The Ventura was launched in 1957 and the LIP electric wristwatch was launched the following year, 1958 It was Hamilton’s Ventura that left a name in the history of watches Due to its unusual design, the name is selling as the world’s first electric wrist watch On the other hand, LIP’s delay in the release of electric watches was due to research and development to improve reliability LIP has higher quality standards required for products than Hamilton, and in terms of completeness, it seems that LIP was higher even at the same time We looked back on the history of digital watches in the video of the previous two times Those who have seen it remember that Hamilton was a very advanced watchmaker at this time In fact, LIP was also a watchmaker with the most advanced technology of the time, competing with Hamilton In order to make it easy to understand its advancedness, I will compare Japanese SEIKO and these two companies’ watches of the same period SEIKO’s Marvel, which was featured in the first video on this channel, was released in 1956 Ventura is the year 1957 LIP Electronic is 1958 When Japan was pleased that it developed a uniquely designed movement and caught up with the world standard of mechanical watches, The two brands sold electric watches There was a huge difference In fact, SEIKO (strictly speaking, Suwa Seikosha Co., Ltd.) dispatches engineers to the LIP at that time to tour the factory and process Let’s get back on track. After this, LIP will be the first French manufacturer to introduce a quartz watch in 1971 As I have introduced so far, the LIP company is a watchmaker that can be said to be a symbol of France, and was a leader in the world watch industry Let’s take a look at the historical story so far, and let’s take a look at the current LIP collection There are many typical models of LIP, but three of them are shown in the image Himalaya, Nautic Ski, T18 Himalaya is a modern design with a good old look The Nautic Ski is a model that conveys the design of old diver’s watches And as mentioned earlier, the T18 is a series of models given to Churchill, featuring a rectangular case and a classic dial

Only three models are presented here, but other LIP collections are usually reprints Issuing a reprint model is now popular in the wristwatch industry, About LIP, almost all of the lineup is a reprint model This is because the original LIP company is gone and only the LIP brand remains The company went bankrupt in the 1970s and the brand has been bought and sold by business people Most recently, the brand owner changed in 2015 That’s why the reprint is the center of the current LIP, not the new model In addition, there is a description of the country of origin of the parts on the French official website The case is made in China and the dial and hands are made in Switzerland The windshield is made in China for mineral glass and Swiss for sapphire crystal Movements such as RONDA from Switzerland and MIYOTA from Japan are used Especially the mechanical type is based on MIYOTA It seems that assembly and adjustment are done in Besancon, but the current LIP is no longer a manufacturer like it used to be Now let’s see why LIP went bankrupt and only the brand survived As I mentioned earlier, the LIP up to the 1950s had advanced technology and was a very strong manufacturer as a symbol of France We have a distribution network all over France, so we are relying on the power of LIP when a brand that was unknown in France at that time develops in France BLANC PAIN and BREITLING, which are now famous for luxury brands, are so The left edge of the image is an early diver’s watch called BLANC PAIN’s Fifty Fathoms There is a letter LIP under the BLANCPAIN logo In this way, it has a double name specification with LIP In the middle of the image is BREITLING’s Aviator, which also has the LIP logo under the brand logo On the other hand, the right end is the original Nautic Ski from 1967 It is reprinted mechanically now, but originally it was electric After all design is cool to see now LIP was selling such a wonderful model, but it will be struggling after 1960 The LIP will run out of funds and in 1967 ETA’s predecessor Evoche SA will acquire a 33% stake in the LIP Shortly thereafter, in 1969, 200 of the 1,500 employees at that time were fired In 1971, Fred Lip, who was the president of the founding family, will retire In 1973, there are stories of dismissing nearly 500 of the remaining 1,300 employees The employees were not convinced of the mass layoffs and occupied the LIP factory at that time and continued to produce independently LIP is a leading watchmaker in France, has a good design, has technical capabilities, and should have a distribution network throughout France However, from the latter half of the 1960s, the management became difficult and the company organization disappeared, as if rolling down a slope There are three main reasons The first is the intensification of competition since the 1960s, when cheap watches were imported It is said that American TIMEX and Japanese watch makers have taken the LIP share The second is the high labor cost In 1934, LIP adopted the first paid leave system in France

In terms of welfare, LIP was also a company that took a proactive approach On the other hand, compared to other companies at that time, LIP had a constant high labor cost Sales are sluggish, labor costs are high, and the financial position of LIP deteriorates Normally, we are going to reduce the business scale and prepare a system that can generate profits by reorganizing However, the times were the times when the labor movement and student movement became more active There was a strike when the first 200 people were fired After that, when people talked about mass layoffs, employees repelled management and started running their own factories This movement based on the idea of ​​anti-capitalist and self-managed economy prevented the reorganization of LIP I can understand the feelings of both managers and employees The LIP was put in such an uncontrollable situation From here, it is a story that leads to the history of Mach 2000 Images are Fred Lip who retired in 1971 and Claude Neuschwander who became GM in 1974 They reach the same conclusion The idea is that we have to make hit products with the aim of achieving a major turnaround However, since we do not have time, it is impossible to develop new technologies and make hit products They thought that the only way to make a hit product with the resources that we could have now is to make a watch with excellent design Therefore, LIP asks eight designers to design the wristwatch Everyone was famous in the field of business, but never designed a watch This is a kind of bet because there are limited methods to take it The Mach 2000 is also a watch made in this process Of these eight, Baschmakoff of ① is a little early Originally Fred Lip commissioned him in 1968 and shortly afterwards the designed wristwatch was sold The remaining seven designers were commissioned by Neuschwander and released between 1974 and 1975 Let’s take a look at what watches were designed in order Baschmakoff used to be an illustrator The left of the image is his work. Written for fashion brand Givenchy He also wrote illustrations for Christian Dior and Pierre Cardin catalogs and advertisements The wristwatch on the right of the image was designed for LIP It looks like an iron mask and is not a standard time display method In Jump Hour, the number that represents time changes not hourly but hourly Then, check the time by reading the minute and second that move gradually Unlike the analog display that is indicated by the needle, it is a method called “Direct Read” or “Direct Time” because it directly reads the number This reprinted edition is also available for the current LIP brand Although it has a sense of the near future, it is designed as jewelry without sticking out in the direction of space age It feels calm somewhere and feels like a finished atmosphere Next is a watch designed by Jean Dinh Van He is a jewelry designer Although already out of business, he is the founder of the jewelry brand DINH VAN I don’t think there are many people in Japan who haven’t heard it, but it seems to be a famous brand in France

He designed the wristwatch on the right of the image It is a two-piece dress watch without a second hand in a square case The hour marks are large and small dots, and the dial has vertical lines It’s like a bracelet with a clock I think the expression “innocent” is more appropriate than simple It may be because it’s a jewelry designer, but it’s a model that gives a good impression Next is Roger Tallon He is a product designer The most famous of his designs is the French high-speed train TGV We deal with a wide range of railways, from interior design to train design We also design furniture, cameras and motorcycles Some even describe him as a “designer who brought industrial design to France.” Roger Tallon designed the Mach 2000 There are so many variations that you can call it the Mach 2000 series The most famous of these is the chronograph in the middle of the image There are other cases such as a square case and a case where the direction of the right edge of the image is rotated 90 degrees I call it Mach 2000 as a whole, but each person may be the model to imagine The Mach 2000 chronograph will be explained in detail later, so I will omit it here It is an incredibly cool model that was designed 45 years ago in a modern atmosphere The fourth is Rudi Meyer He is a graphic designer I also design posters and signs, supervise advertising and catalogs The images are two watches he designed The left side is a square case, and the boundary with the dial is a hexagon Furthermore, screws are placed in the four corners of the case It features a light dial, power from the case and screws It’s pop, but it’s also an interesting design because it has a feeling of tools Today, Bell & Ross is a brand symbol with a design with screws on all four corners Before that, he designed this watch On the other hand, the right side is a design consisting of only circles and straight lines It looks clean, but at first glance it looks like a thin watch However, it is a genre that can be said to be minimal nowadays, and there is such newness Next is Isabelle Hebey The only woman of the eight, she is an interior designer She is responsible for the interior design of the Yves Saint Laurent boutique and the interior of the Concorde supersonic airliner The model of the image she designed for LIP The colors are colorful and fashionable On the other hand, the design of the case and rug is inorganic and has a strong mechanical feel These different elements are combined to create a mysterious charm I felt like I was watching a humanoid robot in old movies and cartoons I had the impression that the emotional or personality of the inside seemed to ooze into the inorganic appearance The fifth is Michel Boyer At that time, I was an interior designer working on contemporary furniture using new materials The watch he designed has a mysterious dial Other than the five vertical lines, the case and the needle are generally used At first glance, the time seems to be difficult to understand, but the place where the straight line intersects the edge of the dial is a proper mark It is designed to allow the pattern on the dial to do its work while eliminating the functional graduation

Next is Marc Held, an interior designer and architect Two models are shown in the image Although there are some accents such as the screw on the bezel and the time notation on the dial, the overall design is not strange When I looked at this watch, I felt that it was designed like an Apple Macbook Of course, this wristwatch was made earlier, but it has such a modern feel Especially on the left side, I feel the flow of universal design that is not based on nation, culture, or people The last is architect Michel Kinn With a square case and Arabic numeral dial, it only looks like a normal wristwatch But there is something new in it What you should pay attention to is the typeface of the Arabic numerals used A very modern typeface is used The Arabic numerals on wristwatches at the time were mainly decorative and thick and sturdy typefaces In that era, the typeface used in this wristwatch has a slender and rational design that makes it universal It is a typeface used to display information on new public facilities and transportation There is the sensitivity and newness of an architect So far, I have introduced watches from eight designers More watches were actually designed, as only some models are available We released many such interesting watches, but the company LIP could not survive Neuschwander had the hope that the French government would buy the LIP in order to keep it alive if the LIP’s management was normalized to some extent It seems that the French government has acquired the car maker Renault However, LIP’s labor problems thrived in the French mass media at the time, and politicians commented on it Partly because of this, the government’s talk about the acquisition of LIP does not hold and the company will be liquidated The wristwatch mentioned here is a model that the company called LIP produced at the end It would have been dramatic if the LIP rebounded after a major reversal, but it didn’t happen That said, LIP was not only a technologically advanced company, it was also a brand that was ahead of design for decades That’s all for the historical story, and then we’ll take a closer look at the Mach 2000 Among the Mach 2000 designed by Roger Tallon, the chronograph model was named “Mach 2000 Dark Master Chronograph” From now on, it’s a very pathological naming sense I think it’s a very familiar name in the old model, which is also combined with this look The image is the original model. What a mechanical wristwatch Some will be surprised. The hand-wound chronograph movement Valjoux 7734 is used The width of the case is 45 mm and the vertical length is 40 mm. It was a large wristwatch at the time In addition, the strap is made of resin, which is a new material at the time I will explain the unique design in addition to this The one shown in the image is the original A colorful case is often cited as a feature of the asymmetrical case In contrast, I focus on the overall Mach 2000 design theme, not on the individual rarity

I think the Mach 2000 is a combination of two conflicting elements into one wristwatch To be specific, it looks like separate watches when split into left and right in the center of the dial First of all, on the left side is a round case with finely marked white lines, and the sub-dial of the second hand has finely divided lines as well I feel a sense of consistent rationality overall Now, let’s focus on the right side There are round buttons that bite into the case and are very colorful Yellow is also used on the scale of the sub dial Since this is a 30-minute totalizer, the intervals are wide and rhythmic The shape of the case, the color scheme, and the sub dial have movement, and have an undulating design In summary, I think the Mach 2000 chronograph is a seamless blend of the two elements as shown in the image The words you express may differ depending on how you feel, but if I express it, it will be as follows On the left side comes the words rational, rational, conservative, and modern On the right side, the words emotional, human, innovative, and postmodern seem to match It’s just my theory, but the Mach 2000 expresses it as a wristwatch with the opposite elements And let me tell you something more romantic LIP at that time had a conflict between left-handed employees and the management and politicians for it From a broader perspective, there was a conflict between the US and the Soviet Union, and a conflict of political thought in society at the time In such a world of bipolar conflict, I think the Mach 2000 is a model that expresses the harmony and mediation That is also the great part of this watch The original LIP company no longer exists, but it has been sold and bought by business people and the brand still exists The Mach 2000 I have introduced at the beginning is not a copy of that time, but a reprint Nowadays, every watch maker has issued a reprint, but it’s not just a release It can be said that the current LIP brand is a reproduction model maker The following is a summary of reprints of the Mach 2000 chronograph However, although the Mach 2000 chronograph was reproduced in the 1980s, I did not know the details Therefore, we will focus on two models reproduced after 2000 The model on the left is from the late 2000s to around 2015 The right side is the current model. I have the right one Probably the owner of the LIP brand changed in 2015 and the model was changed Let’s compare the two The old model on the left uses the ETA movement, and the new model on the right uses the RONDA movement Since the movement used is different, the position of the sub dial is completely different The old model is a movement called ETA 251.271, which originally has three sub dials Since the original had 2 counters, the 6 o’clock subdial was removed, leaving the two above

When comparing the heights of the center seconds and sub dial axes, there are differences Since the original is mechanical, the axes are on the same line In the old model, it’s shifted a lot, and it’s a little bad fit The current reprint model is not on the same line, but it is a little off The deviation of the new model is within the allowable range, and it is suppressed to be a little strange In addition, the original had a second hand on the left of the sub dial and a 30-minute totalizer on the right This is a 30-minute counter on the left and a 10-hour counter on the right in the previous reproduction model On the other hand, the new reprint edition has the second hand revived However, it is the opposite of the original arrangement, the left is the 30-minute totalizer, and the right is the second hand The movement used in the previous reprint was a model without a second hand because the subdial at 6 o’clock was a second hand Also, the hands of the 30-minute totalizer do not move gradually, but the hands move slightly before 1 minute Those who have a chronograph should give it a try The 30 minute counter does not display the exact time by itself Nonetheless, the previous reprints have a very fine scale and the design looks distorted To avoid this, the new reproduction has reduced the density by reducing the scale lines on the left sub dial However, as I explained earlier, the left side of the Mach 2000 was the part that controls rationality and maintainability The impression is weakened, so there is something unsatisfactory It is not the case that the reprint is completely satisfactory. But it’s not bad Although I mentioned the dissatisfaction point, it is easy to use with the quartz type, and especially the new reprint edition has a higher recall rate than before If you like it, you can use it as a holiday watch, especially if you feel like having fun Of course, it may be good news to use in business The Mach 2000 is such a recommended watch When I got to know the Mach 2000, I thought the chronograph model was cool, but I didn’t have the courage to buy it, so I bought the simpler one After all, I wanted a chronograph model and bought it after all Let’s enjoy it while imagining the history of the company called LIP and the thoughts that Roger Tallon put into this design This time I covered LIP and Mach 2000 It is a long video as usual, and it seems that the number of views will not grow I am crazy about making watches, but I think those who have watched so far are also crazy I can’t make videos frequently, but I’ll make more videos that people can enjoy See you next time in the video