HotPatterns brings you a tutorial for our Sakura Bomber Jacket

well hello again is truly human heart patterns with another marvelous tutorial for you this one is for our run of gorgeous once in Jones Sakura bomber jacket and yeah I’m gonna do a very simple tutorial for you not really a sell along not really particularly in depth because there’s not a lot of depth to this one it’s very very simple but I really wanted to show you the kind of order of work and just the little fiddly bits there’s only a handful of them and just how nicely it comes out this is my prototype version of it I made this one in a vintage rayon boil which means I can’t get any more of this so I have to be really clear bordered it’s kind of really really well and that’s because this is designed for a woven fabric however for our sample here this is a knit fabric is a lightweight Ponte knit are you using it really because because I like the print is a mini cheetah print so mini cheetah print bomber jacket really what’s not to like and for this particular one even though it’s designed for a white when you do need a stretchy knit ribbed feel net back and for your cuffs as well so please bear that in mind this one has just enough stretch to make it work however this one does take about 10 1/2 yards of fabric and I only have two yards of this I’ve squeaked it out so I don’t have any more left if I make a mistake it’s all over for me the other thing to point to actually is this on my illustration we have a trim trim inserted through here and around chopper cuffs it’s optionally obviously done because you don’t want to but I’m going to show you how to do it and I basically for this one i’m using an inch and a half strip a very split stretchy black knit rib then I fold it in half and just insert it on those seams but I’ll show you how to do it’s really not hard ok so let’s quickly go through our pieces because they’ve all climate sense to you I’ve just given you half the bomber jacket here because there’s you know quite big pieces all right so we’ve got a center branch this is our center front seeing here where the zippers going to be that’s our neckline that’s our pocket opening populating their here our pocket bags have to cut them in cotton that’s our side front this is our Center back and our side back and this is our rack and sleeve and our Raglan sleeve this color it’s kind of one of the cool things on this one it’s kind of one of the things that makes it really special it’s not a one-piece regular it’s actually cut like a jacket sleeve you know you’ve got the jacket sleeve that goes forward on the arm there and it’s in two pieces this is that it’s basically the rack and shoulder area so all the things wrapped in one sleep yeah so that so here’s what we’re going to do I’m going to basically put this together you’ll see how to the pockets however actually the zipper and the hem how we’re going to put the neck band in all that good stuff I’m going to do it pretty much in the order that the instructions tell you to do it in it’s really not that hard it’s really I want to say it’s more like a kind of deconstructed t-shirts you know it’s got with knit a neck band and cursed but getting differences it’s got a zipper in some pockets and some darts and nothing really to do nothing you can’t handle for sure so okay let’s start off by looking at how we end up preparing the pieces before we start sewing okay so let’s have a look at how we prepare our pieces for this bomber jacket there really isn’t a lot of prep work to do it’s mainly just applying interfacing just strips of interfacing and I’m showing you on the center front pieces because that’s really the most relevant piece although all the pieces you will want to apply the interfacing along the hands but it’s easy enough so on this one we have got a strip of interfacing down the opening here to stabilize it with a zipper we have interfacing here with pocket opening and then we also have it on the bottom there like a two to a half inch strip this is knit or tricot interfacing from fashion sense flight of course years and she’s lovely it’s really lightweight and really pretty and it just behaves itself will be nicely so here is what we have to do now now we’ve prepped all our pieces that all the other jacket pieces will have that interfacing story the bottom now we’ve prepped all the Technic pieces here’s what them to do we’re going to start really see and we’ll start you off with the sleeve we’ll come back look at that short click once we’ve done that then we start doing the body pieces and then we kind of joint all to the other and I finish it and our work is done you’ll be amazed how easy it is so we’re gonna start with our sleeves and as I explained before our sleeves are kind of a jacket sleeve

but also a currency and I know your original information is solution C of Raglan see that has shouldered up like this that’s the dot that goes along here your immediate information just started on you must stop the dot you must not not yet anyway this is kind of crucial to the whole construction process all you’re going to do though is you are going to join your under sleeve here to your upper sleeve obviously right sides together and press your seams open autumn on side whatever you prefer and turn it out and we’ll have a perfectly nice sleeve I wanted that shortly but I also prepare my cuffs here are my cups not exciting oh yeah just a rectangle okay but what I have to do is I have to join them here to make a loop and then of course fold them in half I’m building my cup but I’m also doing the same thing with this so I’m going to join this at the short ends and then I’m going to show you I’m putting together an off base until not showing it so going to going to sew this together going to prepare my cast about ready for pushing them onto the jacket and later on okay so I have prepared sieze for you to have a look at and I’ve done one kind of almost done one is just started so you can see the difference and see if we were trying to achieve it so here is our first sleeve and you can see we’ve got our Raglan II kind of dart here and but the rest of it is really you know it’s a two-piece jacket see nothing exciting there at all for the moment and I’ve also prepared our cuffs our cuffs of course in a loop like this is that our trim is the same thing so then we fold in heart it’s got skinny little live bless it and it’s going to slip over the top of this one so you’re slipping over there and you rent it well you want to pin them together that with that idea but you want to treat that doesn’t one you must so long the search pane you know treat it as one and you’re going to get this black trim here popping out as will insert want to see oh it looks like cause she did I have one here of course I do okay so that’s what we get at the end of it we get that nice kind of finish there let me just slip my hand in them I don’t even show it sure okay so you get this and it’s still my stretchy enough just scrunch up you’re not going to do that my wet stuff like this okay so you can still do that so it’s still stretchy because we’ve used you know knit and knit trim but it sits down like that and you get that nice little flash of black of course you don’t have to use these trends but if you do they look great so you may as well go ahead and try something so now our sleeves are safely done and out of the way or as done as week they can be for now we are going to onto the body off the garment and you have to start when you’re doing the body of the garment you have to start with the center front dance you can’t avoid them there’s no other way to do this you have to do it this way so you do your dance they’re just normal little baby dance here and press the seam allowance downwards and then you’re going to add pocket bags to both set front and side front and it’s really you know it’s not hard things do you sorry you stitch them on precious seam allowances edge stitch and then flip them to the back I’m going to go do it it’s actually easy if you see it once I’ve done it then I’m doing it cuz obviously of course you do that and then I’ll show you how we’re going to join the side front to Center front down here around the pocket bag and down there to give us a really nice neat front that’s ready to be put together with the side back and sent back to have the whole body constructed before we add the sleeves okay so now I’ve done my prelim parts on the front so I’m gonna show you them kind of half way down there show you the other front to see you can see how it is when the Front’s are completed so you start off by doing your dart that’s the wrong side much you can see it’s tightening dot you do dive then you add your pocket bags so that’s like the center front piece is going to like I know kind of odd but what hey and this is your side front piece and then you’re going to join them around the edges of the pockets obviously down here across here and then up from the hem across there and we just laid out since it better okay so down across up and across you are not mercele this what you can he wants absolutely pointless because you don’t need to do so so you’re going to do that and then you’re going to press the scenes at one-way or open and you’re going to lay the pocket bags flat towards the center front want to feel I mean of course you do complete one I thought one of those manic like children’s TV presenters will come up you know okay this is how it looks when it’s done you can’t really see the dark here but believing when you’re wearing it makes a huge difference the seam is

here I just put a couple of pins bed so you flip it over for you and to exactly what’s going on all right centre front neckline whoops neckline dart seam pocket bag over to here I have seen these two together and I’ve not a little diagram or not but the point where the pocket bag starts and finishes because I wanted my see my analysis to go to the side seam but my pockets obviously go to the centre front now do not be alarmed if when you do this your pockets are a little bit over or you little bit under the end Martha the centre front cut line doesn’t matter to you baste them together to center front menu when you put the zipper in you’re gonna ignore that there’s a pocket though if not treat it as though it’s one piece of fabric so that’s what the inside looks like now you’ve done your centre front and side front panels you can go ahead and join the rest of the body pieces so here’s what I’m going to do for that I am going to join my Center back on my side back in the same way as I’ve done this and sings together and press them to the sizing and then I’m going to join my side seams and press those things open and also my centre back seams they’re going to be open what I’ve done that I’ll come back and show you show you how to press them I know it sounds a bit finicky to kind of see where you’ve press the seam allowances but it doesn’t make a difference makes it lay better and it just does you’ll see okay I’m gonna go and do that and I’ll show you it okay we have now put together the body pieces for our jacket and I’m going to put you go through them with you which way I’ve pressed seam allowances to shut them string on the inside we’ve got centre front front neckline armhole or after centre back and then of course we repeat the same thing on the other side so I’m just showing this half for the moment we’ve got side front seam side seam side back seen pocket of course lovely pocket and now we’re ready to put our sleeve on and this is why I said shame you’re making your them your beautiful sleeves I said to you do not close up this Dart don’t leave that open you guys see why moment we’re going to join this really it’s in one kind of pass like that you start at the top here and so all the way around all the way all the way Meredith the top here and you will have your sleeve attached once you’ve sewn all the way around then you go in and place out your dart I like to press my dart flat I can slit it as far as I can press it flat it just gives a nicer finish especially on a heavier fabric back there so a Ponte like this so I’m going to show you the other side in a moment and you can see how it looks but before I do let’s look at the seam allowances this is what I mean we’ve got the side seams are pressed open the center back incentive grant awards the side seams and the center back is just open it just kind of lays better that way but bear in mind that your mind is may very mental to do a different thing not to seen them all together or press them all open through to your core okay so there’s our front there’s our I touch sleeve let’s look at the other side where we have actually touched this little and now you can see see that we’ve got us feeling like this let me show you the inside how that looks because it’s actually much easier to see especially on this this is a white back Ponte okay so your princess seams all of your princess things come up here and they match the underarm seam of the sleeve which is very convenient all the way down there and the same on the back but it’s literally just one pass all the way around there and all the way up there and then as I said you do your dart your shoulder dart like this press it flat and you’re good so now we’ve actually completed the body of the jacket but at least I will have stimulus sleeve on we have just three things to do complete our bomber jacket I know it’s kind ridiculous isn’t it it’s a relatively simple piece we have to put on the neckline trim that’s really really essential that goes on next then we put the zipper in and then we do the hem and that is it that’s it there’s nothing else to do this is what I mean when I say it’s kind of like you know t-shirt with pockets and unzipper is really not such a major thing so okay I’m gonna go and put my my other sleeve it and then I’m going to show you how I can map out putting on the neckline string it’s kind of key and this area here rent meets in the middle the top of the zipper that’s kind of critical because that’s what the oh my goes straight away so you get that right it’s all there look really really good so I’m gonna show you my little tricks for that because I may have to actually come right in very close and show you yeah and then we’ll put it together and we’re done okay so now this stage where I’m about to join the net back here onto the

neckline I’ve got my trim my contrast trim and I’ve basted it on based on the edge there I’ve actually stitched it flat here because it was misbehaving and curling but that’s okay it’s absolutely as it should be this will finish up about 3/8 of an inch wide so again this is our centre front and I have pressed the 3/4 of an inch seam allowance back that’s really important and I’ve put a little crisscross of pins here let me see if I can just turn a little bit tighter for you so you can see exactly what I mean we just move this and zoom it Oh wonders of modern technology isn’t it fun okay okay so there’s a little crisscross here that’s basically the folded edge that you press under for your zipper and that is 3/8 of an inch down your cut edge and that point there they intersect that is where your endpoint of your neck band is going to finish so that pin there that’s the pin that’s 3/8 of an inch away from the cut edge that has to match that when you sew it on that’s the important bit get those bits right at both the the left hand right hand side and you’re good you don’t have to be too worried if you don’t quite make it there if it’s a little bit back like a tiny bit maybe an eighth maybe three-eighths but not three a three and eight three sixteenths you can’t have it going over because it’ll be ridiculous so you need to do that and you need to make sure that you pin or mark or base so these two points here sit together I’m going to pin them on I’m going to sew them on you will see what I mean okay so now we’ve put the neck band in and you can see where we’ve finished we finished exactly on the center front fold line that’s what it should be don’t be too concerned about this seam allowance that you’ve got left here the card after you put the zipper in we are going to do this see the cross there to get rid of it and it’ll be tucked away so now now we’ve done this spit now the neck band is in we are now going to put on a zipper then we’ll do the hem and we are done okay we are now at the penultimate step which is putting our zipper now on your pattern shopping list and on the website I’ve told you or I suggested you to get at least an 18 inch long zipper and then shorten it and the pattern actually contains instructions for you to shorten it because it’s a really easy thing to do but as it happens I’ve also done the little baby kind of shoe twirl off fat which is about two minutes long separately to this so if you need to shorten your separating zipper go watch that are so easy because it is and then you can come back and do this and I’ve done that because zippers come in very standard lengths separating zippers that ones that they put the bottom that you need for something like this come in some lengths but few colors so irritating so um you might just have to get a longer one in your correct color and shorten it dead easy there so go watch the little tutorial if you need to and if you don’t stay here and do this alright so we’ve pressed back because of an itch we know where the zippers going we may need to decide we want to see the teeth let me have it in like that or do you want to cover them I actually got to see it to you I like that kind of vertical line the chief gear button that’s really good so I’m gonna do that now when you are dealing with a separating zipper you must really work from the bottom the bottom is key the bottom always stays the same no matter what happens at the top and here so I’m going to find my trusty hem notch which is there we go and I’m gonna pin it in there it’s gonna go there and it’s gonna go back so we can actually see it like this if I just show you very publicly where it’s going to be positioned just going to put a couple of pins in as we considered I’m gonna sew it from the back not the top stitch straight I’m trying to avoid as much oxygen as I can on this and I’m not really in the mood for stitching with this but of course some families look better with top stitching so you have to side so it’ll be kind of like this will be able to the teeth when they go through will be obviously that tape like that so what we have to do now is they have to place it right size the zipper to the right side of the fabric and make sure that the teeth bump up against but not over the folded edge so I’m going to do that finish on down here and I just certain two passes one two really not not hard and if you’ve done any close it but this is actually the easiest ones to do so I’m going to pin one side and so on sight and show you what I mean okay so I have pinned in one side of the zipper for you so you can see what we’re doing why we’re doing it the bottom edge of it here matches the

hem notch and the top edge of it here this actually has to be the correct length is by some miracle the stopper i’ve elided with the the bottom edge of the trim so that’s pinned in on that side I might actually sewn on the other side so let me switch that around and show you what it looks like because we’re also going to do we’re gonna start off the hem and the cleaning up the Tatras as well okay so when it’s sewn on like this you can see it’s gonna sit like that when I see the teeth and it’s all gonna be nice and flat fishing you’ve pressed it you can toss such this if you wish you don’t have to it’s entirely up to you but what we’ll do is this once we’ve sewn it in we’re going to fold up our hem here let me see that fold it up at the knot and pin and then we’re gonna stitch at the same point at the zipper tape or just a little bit inside it straight down there tip those corners turn it out and you’ve got a perfect start to your hand and then of course you can just toss stitch all the way around or hand stitch whatever the first do we are going to attempt to the same thing at the top it doesn’t always work give me a bit bulky if it doesn’t you’re gonna have to do this by hand but I prefer to it by machine if at all possible okay here’s what we’re going to do because this is over the center front me I’m gonna fold it back I’ll fold it back like that and then we fold it so that Center front fold line then he pressed in fold it the other way against what you pressed and then you’re just going to whoops just fiddle that down for you do that pull the neck band that way I will do like maybe half of the stitches there and then that corner is going to be turned out let me do it for you and then you’ll see lemme okay so now I do believe that you can see exactly the state you’ve got to work pretty much completed when we will see I’ve got uneven tail ends it doesn’t matter because of course it looks nice on the outside when we do this we set our zipper on see that we can click the corner off here get the corner off turn it out and you get this lovely perfect kind of lit crisp clean edge there right across there that’s really really nice and neat same applies at the top this is very very bulky here with you know the Trillium of the zipper and the neck band everything doesn’t matter grade it now much I cannot press it flat and actually it’s worked really well now if I wanted to while I was doing the hem which is really straight through here that’s not so bad all the way around I can top stitch I want to all the way around the neckline down center front around the bottom and back again I’m not sure I’d deal no to the bottom top stitching and then we’ll seal it looks like and yeah we are done we are done as a dumb thing and I think you will agree that it’s a relatively easy start to put together like I said before t-shirt was it really this is our fish object gorgeous I would love to model this version for you except for the fact that we’re filming this in August and this is a Ponte and I promise you’re probably lost about 30 seconds for a drop from heat exhaustion so however having said that this is going to be a great kind of fall of me to piece for me while certainly a winter this is almost like a winter clothes I think but really really nice piece beautiful and easy to make although it has to be said my own locker for some reason didn’t like this fabric one little bit my straight machine loved it my overlock was like not gonna play nicely at all but nevermind I won because those machines are not the boss of me so here’s our beautiful secure a bomber jacket I really do suggest that you make yourself a bunch of these knit ones woven ones the lightweight pretty evening ones groovy linen ones all sorts of things if you’re making almost any kind of blouse or jacket weight fabric or t-shirt you know a t-shirt puppet with a bit of substance to it it’s gonna look really really good on you and you are going to be amazed at how versatile is your closet so once again thank you for watching