Toe Up Socks – The Toe – Tutorial – Knitting Blooms

in this video I am going to start you off on the basic socks this tutorial is the start of several lessons on how to do toe up socks using a Turkish cast on and a short row heel we are going to be using my formula that I use for my basic socks you can find this pattern on Ravelry it is available for $3 download or you can just follow along with the video I do include a lot of notes with the pattern and I’m going to try and share most of that with you during this video but I can’t share everything that I because there’s just so much information to share but I will try and give you the gist of how to use this pattern and be able to calculate your gauge and be able to create your basic sock the first thing that you’re going to need to start off with is you’re going to need to measure your foot you will need to know your foot circumference around the largest part of your foot usually the ball of your foot or maybe your ankle and also the length of your foot from toe to heel those measurements are very important because we are going to be using those to calculate how many stitches that you need to use for your sock around your sock and also to figure out where you’re going to stop for your short row heel now you can do your gauge swatch with your yarn and your needles if you like I prefer to just go ahead and start my toe and then once I get a good portion of my toe completed then I can calculate my gauge socks are such a small little thing that if you find that as you’re working up the foot a little bit and you find that it’s a little too tight or a little too loose you can just rip back a little bit and make the adjustments it’s not that big of a deal so I’m going to go ahead and start you off with cast on and how we go about doing the increases and then we will calculate our gauge for this particular sock okay so I’m going to be using the Magic Loop method to do these socks if you are going to use dpns you can also still use this same cast on technique with dpns you will just need three needles for the dpns to do your cast on and then one to do your stitches so to do the Turkish cast on which is what I like to do best is you’re just going to put the slip knot on one of the needles and I hold this needle on the bottom and then what you’re going to do is you’re going to take your yarn from your ball not you’re not detail the working yarn and you’re going to wrap it from back to front around your needle however many times that you want for the number of stitches that will be at the bottom of your heat of your toe the tip of your toe now if you like a point to your toe you will cast on last stitches if you like a more square toe you will cast on more stitches if you have never made a sock before and you have no idea how many stitches you’re going to be increasing – my suggestion is to cast on between 12 and 16 stitches if you know approximately if you’re going to want to do an odd or an even number depending on a stitch pattern that you might want to include in your pattern or in your sock then cast on an odd or an even number here I’m going to go ahead and cast on 14 stitches and actually when I say 14 stitches it’s 14 stitches on each side but it’s actually just 14 loops so once you have wrapped the yarn around 14 times then you’re ready to begin your first row and it’s very important that you have your

yarn at the top of your work so you’ve come around the bottom of your work and you’re coming around to the top to start off with now the first thing you want to start with is you’re going to pull the needle out that has the slipknot on it so you’re going to pull the needle out that has the slipknot on it and you’re going to just knit into that first stitch that’s not really a stitch is just a loop but you just have to make it into a stitch and you’re going to knit across these these loops so we’ll have 14 stitches across and once you get to the end you’re going to turn so that you can work the other side and if you know anything about magic loop you know that you have to just keep moving your needles so we’ve already done that that was only half of the of the round now we’re going to finish up the round on the other side to create the two sides of the sock but this Slipknot we are not going to work the Slipknot at all we are going to skip that one I like to just leave it on the needle until I am ready to work that first stitch and then let it pop off when I take the first stitch off I just want to make sure that it’s out of the way and I’m going to knit across these 14 stitches as well and once you have finished you will see that you have 14 stitches on each side you can just take that Slipknot right out of there you’ll have 14 stitches on each side and you are ready to begin the increases for your toe so now I’m ready to do the increases for my toe and I always do my increase one stitch in now if you are not um particular about having both sides of your sock look the same then you can do your increase any way you would like but this is how I do my increases I like my increases to mirror each other so I will knit the first stitch and then I will do a lifted left-leaning decrease or increase on here and how I do that is I lift up I lift up the the bar that’s in between and I put it on my needle but then in order to make it left-leaning I need to knit through here and what that does is it it makes it lean and it also twists the stitch and then I will work my way across and right before the last stitch in this row I will do a right-leaning and this way I pick up from the back and then I just slip my needle into the front of that stitch kind of like knitting through the back loop and then one more and turn and then I do the increases on this side as well so I will be doing the decreases or the increases on this side as well the same way I will knit the first stitch on this side and here I want to do a left-leaning decrease or sorry I keep saying decrease I want to do an increase I’m going to lift it and put it on the on the needle there and then I’m going to kind of pull it forward just so that I can get my needle in on this side to knit and I’ll work my way across and one stitch before here and I will do

a right-leaning I will lift it from the bottom and stick my left needle in from back to front and then knit that stitch now I will have 16 stitches on either side once you do one increase round then you do one straight round just of knits and as you continue to work you just make sure that you can keep your um your tail on the outside I like it on the outside because then I know when my tail is on the outside and it is on the left side of my work then I know that I’m at the beginning of my round that’s how I judge which is my right side which is the top of my foot and which is the bottom of my foot so I will go ahead and work one row of plain stockinette here and then I will come back and allow you to watch the increases again okay so here we are back at the beginning of the round and we’re ready to do another increase round so again I will knit the first stitch I will do my left-leaning increase by lifting the stitch or lifting the bar putting it on the needle and then just tugging on it just a little bit just so I can get my needle back through the front of this stitch and I’ll work my way across and then here we are at the end of this row here I will lift up here lift the bar between and then insert my needle and this will be a right-leaning increase and then I will turn now one thing I want to mention here is that when you are whether you’re using double points or magic loop or what have you when you knit this first stitch on this row on this row you need to make sure that it is tight enough so that you’re not going to get ladders running up the side of your sock so I always knit the first stitch and then I give it a nice tug so that it will pull those two stitches together you can also do it again when you after you do your increase so here here’s my increase put it on and then give it a little tug so I can sweep back through on this side then right before I do that stitch I should you um give another little tug on that first stitch just to just to help it out and knit all the way across and here’s my next increased and now I’m ready to do a plain knit round so that’s all you’re going to do so I will go ahead and finish up these increases or do it so that I have a little bit more of a toe here so that I can take a gauge and then once I have enough to do my gauge then I will come back and show you how to measure your gauge and how to calculate how many stitches you would need in your sock okay so now we have a piece that’s large enough where we can measure our stitch gauge and to do this all we’re going to do is like any other stitch gauge you will just take your ruler and count the number of stitches in the inch now I understand that this swatch that is our

toe is not as big as it normally would be if you were doing your a gauge swatch outside of the toe but I find that that the toe is enough of a swatch that I can calculate my stitch count based on this so all you’re going to do is count your stitches between an inch and I do recommend like any other swatch when you’re checking your gauge – to measure at different places along you know around your the area on the front maybe on the back whatever works for you now I have found that in this piece I get nine and a half stitches approximately nine and a half stitches per inch now also we talked about the foot circumference of eight of eight inches that’s my foot circumference now I like to have negative ease in my socks because I like my socks to be nice and snug on my feet so instead of calculating a circumference of eight inches I’m going to use the 7.5 now maybe you don’t want negative ease on your socks then you would probably want to stick to the 8 the 8 inch or whatever your foot circumference is or maybe you don’t want to have as much negative ease and you will calculate based on 7.75 you have to decide what works best for you and how you like your socks to fit this is why I came up with this whole calculation system because I like my socks to fit one way you might like to your socks to be loose and baggy you have to decide what you like so based on your foot circumference and whether you want positive or negative ease you need to figure out what measurement you’re going to work with for instance okay so I have 9.5 stitches per inch and I’m going on the measurement of 7.5 inch circumference of my foot so that the sock is um snug on my feet so I will take 9.5 times 7.5 and that gives me a total number of stitches that needs to be in my sock of 70 1.25 now we need to divide this in half because we have two separate sections of the sock we have the front and the back so we’ll divide this by two and obviously we can’t do a half of a stitch we have to either round up to 34 or we have to round down – sorry round up to 36 or round down to 34 because we cast on an even number of stitches now if we had cast on an odd number of stitches when we started then we could get to 35 and then that would be fine but we cast on an even number so in order to make sure that we have increases evenly on both sides we want to keep those increases so in this case I’m going to round down to 34 stitches instead of rounding up to 36 now when I talk about these this stick these stitches we’re talking about one side only so we’re going to have 34 stitches or a total of 68 all the way around the sock which brings us to the next section this here’s where you can fill in your calculations so my total number of stitches for my sock is going to be 68 with 34 stitches per Section and here I’ve just written down that I cast on 14 stitches or that’s 14 stitches on one side and a total of 28 stitches so I need to go ahead and increase a couple more rows because I only have 30 stitches here so I have to increase do two more increase rows with the knit rows in between and then I will come back and we’ll finish up this section so I decided to go ahead and let you see the increases one more time I still have one more increase road to go here and I’m going to show you one more time again with the increases so you knit the first stitch and then you lift the bar between the stitches and place it on your your left needle and you kind of just tug it forward just a little bit so that you can get your needle in and around and again this is just because I like to make sure my increases are all look the same on both sides I’ll I’ll show you what I mean when I get to the end of the row but if you don’t if again if you don’t care that they look slightly different then you can do your increase any way you like I’m just a stickler about having it look the same on both sides so then I will knit across all the stitches on this side of the foot and at one stitch I will increase again

by lifting sticking the left needle in to the front of the stitch and knitting to the back loop that just twists the stitch when you pick up those bars you need to make sure that you twist that stitch to make sure that there’s no gaps let me just do this one side and then I’ll show you what I mean along the edge and having both of them look the same so again I’m going to make a left-leaning increase here and knit across when I get to the end here I will increase again by lifting the bar and slipping it and knitting through the back loop okay so let me show you here what I mean when you look at the sock from this angle you can see how I have a nice line that’s going straight up the side of my sock the toe of my sock now understand that nobody’s really going to be looking at the side of your sock like that but I can see it so I like it to look nice so that’s what the side of the the toe looks like so at this point once you have all your increases actually I do have one more row that I need to do my final knit row after I’ve done my increase row so I’ll have to do that but after I finish that knit row then I’m ready to start the foot of the sock now I’m probably just going to make these plain stockinette socks but maybe you want to add a pattern to your socks and this is where you would start adding it on the top of your foot based on your stitch count you can either find a pattern that works exactly with that stitch count or maybe you might have to adjust your stitches slightly so that it works with the with the stitch count again I’m just going to do a straight stockinette for this but I still need to know where I’m going to stop the foot to start the short row heel and that’s where the UM charts come in again the Spreadsheets or the the pattern that I have here and my foot measurement if we go back to the first sheet my foot measurement was nine inches and again I like to have my sock a little bit snug but what I can do is I can measure my toe because my toe is going to be about the same depth as my heel and depending on how many stitches you cast on if you cast on ten stitches or whatever your it’s going to be a little bit deeper but depending on how many stitches you cast on is going to depend on how deep your heel is going to be because you’re probably going to decrease to that same number of stitches so in this case my um my toe is almost one and three-quarter inches but because I like to have my sock snug I’m going to go based on basically one and a half to two so I’m going to start my heel when I when my foot measures between seven and seven a half inches okay so I will start working up my foot and then when I can measure my sock and it is seven and a half seven to seven and a half inches that’s when I’m going to stop and do my heel and you can also fill that in on this section here on the foot section it’s in this case I’m going to go one and a half to two inches shorter than my desired overall foot length so that’s the beginning of our sock so now you have all the information that you need in order to create your toe and then work up your foot and then the next tutorial we’ll be going through how to do the short row heel and then following that tip we’ll go through the leg and then the cast off so I hope you enjoyed this tutorial on how to get your sock started on a Magic Loop on a toe up socks with a Magic Loop please check back next time for the next section which will be the short row heel thanks

for watching bye so I hope you enjoyed that tutorial one thing that I forgot to mention when I was starting the tutorial is that when I start a new sock I always take my hundred grand ball of yarn and um first I wind it into one cake and then what I do is I take my digital scale that goes down to a hundredth of a hundredth of a I think it’s a gram one hundredth of a gram is that right I think it’s one hundredth of a gram so I it’s a it goes down to a small amount so I can split the skein and what I do is I put the UM the one big cake on my scale and then I pulled from the center and I put it back on my ball wonder and I start winding off but before I start winding off I weigh the ball to find out exactly how much it weighs and then figure out what halfway would be then I keep that cake on the UM the scale and then I want to start winding off onto the ball winder again and as soon as I get to the halfway point I cut the yarn and then I have two equal portions so that I can work on both socks at the same time as you know if you’ve watched the show for a while I like to work on both of my socks at the same time I’ll work up my my toe on the first sock on Magic Loop and I’ll then I’ll work up the toe on the second sock on Magic Loop two separate needles but um at the same time and then I’ll work up the foot on both and then the heel on both and then the leg and so forth it it keeps me from having second sock syndrome I it does mean that I have to have two needles all the time in order to do that but I have lots of needles so and most of my socks are done on zeros and I want to say that I probably have like at least five or six pairs pairs of size zero circular needles for Magic Loop so I could have basically set six pairs of socks on the needles at the same time which I rarely do sometimes I’ll have two or three but rarely do I have more than that but I’ve tried different fans of needles currently I’m using my the new carbon needles but I also have my knit picks and I also have the high highs so I’ve tried different needles over the over the years so I have lots of different ones so that’s what I typically do just because I like to have them both going at the same time and by doing them toe up I can start at the toe if I have equal balls I can start at the toe and work up until I’m almost out of yarn and then do the cast off usually I work about seven and a half to eight inches of the leg and then do about another inch and a half or so inch and a half to two inches of cuff it just depends on you know what what strikes my fancy at that time but that’s what I typically do when I start a pair of socks and so I hope you enjoyed that tutorial and I hope it will help you get started on knitting socks or at least get started on knitting toe up socks so I hope you enjoyed it thanks you