Changing out fork springs – 2008 zx-6r

all right so today we got a little project here track bike meets and Springs I’m just a little bit too big for for the front fork Springs we got in there so we got ourselves a nice set from race tech here we’re gonna try popping those in Oh at least we’ll see how badly we can screw it up before we have to pick it into the mechanic mix so first thing I have hoisted the bike up in the air voices the front end up just off the ceiling of my shot with a couple ratchet straps I think that’s gonna work for us get front end off the ground so next all take the front tire off and start loosening off the clamps for the forks pretty straightforward see if we can do all right so we got double check here yeah we got these pinch bolts backed off it’d be nice if we had a tool for this in the tool kit comes with the bike but of course there isn’t they do make fancy those multi sized nut tools for specifically for taking these nuts so you can keep though if you got a bolt and a couple nuts to jam on there throw it in of course you’re turning on the the nut that gems up against the other side here and I did pre loosen that a bit beforehand so that makes her nice and easy for taking take them over there the pinch bolts on the other side of course are still done up just to get this just to get this loosened off here so I’ll just sticker about yeah about that far for right now and I’ll run around and do the other side as well so pretty straightforward nothing complicated here oh yeah I took the loosened off the front fender here so attached to the brake line the fender doesn’t really have to come off you just got to get get a detached from the fork legs here so let’s go do the other side okay so the other side is undone there now there goes the excellent sheriff ones her out of there so now we got got the fender free the pork legs here next thing we got to do is loosen the clamps up on top here we’re gonna hit the pinch bolts up top don’t forget the ones holding the the clip-ons on there as well there’s a couple more down inside there those are a little trickier to get out but we’ll hit those up here in a second that’ll free up the fork legs to drop right out of there here you can see I’ve got a zip tie on so I the the idea with these is you put a zip tie on there slide it up and then as this as the spring before it compresses the dust seal is gonna push that down and you can find your your maximum limited travel there mine as you saw was right down in the bottom indicating I’m using the entire travel and bought Oh mean bottoming out there so hence the reason for the new Springs alright so we got things loosened off here it’s real helpful to pull the little side cover here to get at the bolts pinch bolts down on the lower triple clamp there so I’ve just got this one kind of snug just to hold her in place back that up just start gently working down yo one for coat all right let’s get the other one out okay so that’s that got a pair of forks over there and those things need to be cleaned so nothing too spectacular they’re pretty straightforward pretty easy to do next part is starting to bust into the internals that’s gonna have to wait for another night I’ve got a meeting I got a goatee alright so back at her here we’ve got one of the fork lakes here taking off the cap not too difficult I just hit her there spinner off not too hard you end up like this inside this part isn’t under attention here at all but this here’s is a preload spacer and that is

under tension under there basically you got to pull this down to be able to get at the at the nut in there to be able to take this cap off so you can get the whole spring so there is a fancy tool you can buy from Kawasaki that’ll do that and I think race Tech has won or you can get a little get a little ingenuity and build something so I just took like some I I don’t know inch and a quarter inch and a half box tubing chopped a little chunk in there well the couple nuts and some 3/8 bolts the holes here are 10 mil so three-eighths ends up working okay so the way that works is you just slip her over align the holes with the bolts and screw them in now I’ve seen all kinds of apparatus is that you can use for compressing this in here but again I don’t have those but I do have lots of ratchet straps that seem to work good and so you know I should strap hook around there hook around here it’s looking nice and gonna unset a little that’s gonna have to slide through there like so you turn that down a bit hand that going be gentle don’t don’t mess up your fourth lake too bad and there you go right so now you got that detached you can get at that nut which is what we’re gonna bust off next here and yeah I’ll pull you back in let’s say once I got that done yeah all right so I got the the nuts broken they’re a little lock nut we’re just gonna spin off the tap here like it’s into the damper uh there so that’s the little needle at the bottom that controls the house I compression to rebound that would be rebound damping let’s put that bench here wait you mean that’s just right there so on the ground to release this while holding it that’s so good that I’m done what’s oil in there that wants to kind of come out because I’m creating a bit of a vacuum as I pull that out so I’m gonna I’m gonna drain this out here next and and then we’ll pull the spring out of there so lots of oils on everywhere now I can get this thing out yeah very down in there is uh there’s a spring so that would be the old spring we’re replacing compare that to a new one old one new one new one is a heavier gauge and I don’t know maybe half an inch longer maybe 9/16 something like that so I definitely those of you yeah they feel kind of the same but I know that one’s a little tighter for sure so installation should be the opposite of disassembly here but I’m gonna take some time to clean that out um about the oil there cycle the suspension few times it pumps up the oil make sure that we’re clean before we put good good stuff back in ooh Katie so next step here got everything all drained out the spring is over there next step fill it up with oil so I’m starting out with both 425 Mills here things look teen specs from the book are 97 Mills from the top plus or minus 2 no

spring upper fork tube fully compressed you’re gonna pump this few times make sure all the oils out we’ll do it slowly you want to make sure you get all the air out of there so you don’t get a false reading of course it’s like the tube up and down there of course doesn’t do anything until you’ve got the damper rod in there second all the we come back out there is a special tool you can get to hold that there and let’s take measurement okay so I purposely put in less than the less than we needed there’s ninety seven just kind of dipping down at 1 centimeter increments see where the level is that we’re away a lot more like you know beyond 130 140 150 mils not even registering so it’s poor anymore that’s really close okay it’s 100 read about a hundred and three we need to get down to 97 so we are just about its neck read make sure the scale is clean before I start dipping it in here k 97 that was 99 when I got like 2 mils on there so hold my thumb at 97 oh that’s like perfect nice okay so that’s that you’re up in spring we’ve got our spacer here now make sure that suckers clean I see some stuff in there so I’m going to actually can do that real quick here we don’t like a gun man oh yeah that’s perfect okay so like I just lost a couple minutes should be careful with that okay so the damper ruts gonna go there but first we got to compress that thing here’s our handy dandy little tool they’re screwed up like so like so come press wait yeah that should do the trick

once I fish that thing over there so I’m gonna get a wire to fish up the damping rod out of the out of the hole there okay it’s using a coat hanger you got that raw fish up no we’re gonna do it we feed this thing in soap you can oil out everywhere nice and we spin Iran okay just in there that’s tight good good stick that in there and you can back this thing off really gently like somebody gets hurt here okay I have Serkan Judas bugger sure look at Mason leave that space are aligned and I believe we’re ready to close her up here all right one done so I’m going to get that installed in the bike and then torque it tight in there that’s pretty easy that piece right yeah that does feel a little bit harder than before so awesome we’ll get that all cleaned up clean the oil off in there and pop that back in the bike after we do the second one all right so we got everything back together just the tops aren’t torqued down yet I’ll do that once they’re in the triple clamps there everything’s back together and ready to go so let’s so next thing I’m gonna do here is just set my set my ride height this is a starting point I’m going for about ten mil so I’ve set that set it a little bit high I’ve got the top clamp there just lightly snugged and we’ll dial that into we’re right at ten maybe have no more to go of course here within a mill that’s just fine okay so now both sides are even so I can clamp that down of course they’ll be setting static sag and everything here shortly once we get the wheel on and back on the ground and such so let’s now move to the bottom end I’m gonna take a few minutes here and drill all my all my fasteners for for

safety wire so now I got to figure out those those bolt heads there so okay well let’s get right on that okay I think we’re about ready to throw the wheel back in here I’m trying hard here to juggle this thing with both touching the surface of the rotor okay goes straight for the cap on the other side we’ll get that started here we go now we can start winding in the winding in the nuts here so I’ll get that in and tighten up and then we’ll look at aligning the axle and the forks all right so we’ve got things on here now great calipers are on both sides now I spread the pads before I put before I put them on so they’re not really touching the rotor at all and despite our best efforts to to not be touching the rotor surface I do see a little bit there so we’re gonna take half a second just to give this a quick clean here make sure there’s no oil left on there there’s no fingerprints left on there pretty good so I’ll go around and I’ll hit that backside of that as well as well as the other rotor all right moment of truth I think we can lower our down just gonna make sure I’ve got enough enough tension on these upper collapse they’re the only thing that’s tightened up right now and they’re not bad that tight just enough to hold the bike up in the air yeah the lowers aren’t done yet Oh floor this down a bit here on the ground now what I did forget to do is measure my static sag so I’ll do that after I get after I get things together there at the bottom when I get that axel axel clamped in there properly and aligned