FD 54 – Apparel Manufacturing Lesson 3 – Sweatshirt – Part 1

hello I’m a lien crooks welcome to FD 54 apparel manufacturing knit project the sweatshirt assembly in this section I’m going to show you how to sew the front pocket on to the front of the sweatshirt the shoulder seam with the twill tape sewing the sleeve into the armhole the underarm seam the side seam assembling the knit cuff and sewing it to the bottom at the wrist to get started with you would have prepared your pockets with the cover stitch machine front the front should have two rows of stitches and then the back shows an extensive row of stitches you want to make sure that your pockets go with the tall side so when you fold them you’re going to have the taller side going up towards the top so when we get our front piece we’re going to set our pockets on to the corners going towards the center and you want to make sure that you get a pair that they’re opposite first step is we’ll stay stitch you don’t want to start at the top of the pocket you want to start somewhere along the middle and sew into the corner because we’re tacking the pocket on too and you can use a long stitch and you don’t want to sew too far into the corner because this stay stitching is going to be covered up when we sew the zippers and the other when we sew the zipper and when we sew the rib knit for the bottom after our stay stitching’s done we’ll turn the side edge 1/2 inch and then we’re going to top stitch the side down when you get to the edge you want to walk the machine to where you’re right on the edge and then you’re going to turn it at a slight angle and walk three stitches so what we’re creating here is a triangle and we’re going to use this triangle to reinforce the edge of the pocket we use the triangle instead of a box tack because the triangle will give more support without making a hole if the edge of the pocket rips away we’ll do this at the top – so turn the top part of the pocket 1/2 inch boom top stitch in towards the pocket

opening when you get to the edge you’re going to walk the machine then you want to angle off and walk the machine for about three to four stitches and then come back and meet your first row of top stitching you do this to the same on the other side also on the top turn it 1/2 inch when you’re walking your machine you want to make sure your foot is on the pedal down at the bottom because this will release the Machine and it will allow it eat for you to walk it easier or to turn the hand wheel a lot smoother when you’ve gotten both sides done the next step would be to sew the shoulder seams you’re going to take the back lay the back out and then you’re going to lay the Front’s so the pocket is facing on the inside you want to line up your shoulder seams now this lines up your sweatshirt and prepares it to sew the shoulder seams but the shoulder seams we’re going to sew with the overlock stitch now we’re ready to work on the shoulder seams with our five thread overlock what we’ll need to do is add a quarter inch by quarter inch twill tape to our seam we’re going to catch the tool tape under the chain stitch so that would be the farthest outside needle this completes the shoulder scene so

when we’ve done that we’re ready to set the sleeve into our arms die we’re going to lay the piece open turn it over lay our piece open flatten our shoulder seam and then we’re going to match our armhole pieces and normally when you look at your arm hole piece you’ll notice that the steeper side of the curve wants to go towards the front and the longer slopey side goes towards the back and then also we have a notch for the center this matches with our shoulder seam so to line this up I’m going to start I’m going to match it down here at the bottom or the back excuse me I’m going to match it at the back and the underarm and I’m only going to sew a couple inches at a time as you set the sleeve in you want to work your fabrics independently so you can match them around the curve and add an ease when you need to okay that’s one side for the other side flip it over and we’re going to start at the front remember when you’re sewing the curve you do not want to pin this into the armhole you want to sew it without pins and line up a couple inches in front of the overlock we want to work in ease at the top of

the cap and then you want to match it going around the bottom of the sty this completes setting in the sleeves to the arms dies the next step would be to sew the underarm and the side so what we’ll do is we’ll flip it over lay it out double check make sure we don’t have any puckers and that we’ve sewed our sleeve to our armhole or our arms die correctly there’s no puckers we want to double check make sure that the shoulder seam is sewn the right way that it’s connected to the arms die and that the seam is filled towards the back with the twill tape showing you do not want to set the twill tape inside the seam you want to make sure that the twill tape is sewn on top with the chain needle and that when you set it all out and you get ready to sew your underarm seam and that your side seam that your twill tape is showing you have no puckers here in your sleeve cap that your arm or your sleeve is set into your arms die correctly after we’ve looked at it and double-checked now it’s the time to sew the underarm seam plus the side will start at one side at the wrist and we’re going to go down all the way to the bottom so we can sew this in one continuous seam in this application what we’ve done is we’ve sewn in a flat seam and then we’re going to sew the underarm and the side in one application so we’ll start at the wrist again you don’t need to use pins you can line up the fabric couple inches in front as you go the other side same direction you want to start at the wrists when you’re lining this up or feeding fabric into the over locks you do not want to push it in all the way you want to line it up with the knife then when you get to the underarm at the seam you want to make sure that both seams are going towards the bottom so when you sew over the top of it they

won’t twist okay now your garment starting to take shape you’ve sewn the sides and the underarm it’s time to put the rib knit cuff on well so first we’ll sew the rib knit together you’re going to fold this lengthwise once you’ve done that you’ll fold it in half and it creates a circle same thing you’ll fold it lengthwise you have one side of the fold here you’re going to sew the two raw edges together fold it in half okay you want to make sure that the seams are lying flat that they’re not twisted they’re going in the same direction once you have your cuff shaped then you can apply it to your sleeve you want to talk the cuff on the inside of the sleeve so the cuff is going to be facing the right sides match the seam at the bot at the wrist now because we’re sewing a round seam we’re going to start our seam a little differently than we did at the underarm I’m going to start it ahead of the seam here and I’m going to feed my fabric into the machine at an angle so I’m going to feed the machine or feed the fabric into the machine at an angle and turn it towards the edge you want to make sure you’re catching all layers all three layers of your fabric and your rib knit and as you’re going you’re stretching the rib net just slightly now to reduce the bulk where the seams meet you can have them go different directions when we come back to where I’ve started I’m going to overlap about an inch and then I’m going to angle off so I’ve created like a little on circle or curved there when I sew yep the other side is the same we’re

going to put our ribbed cuff inside of the sleeve match the seams to reduce the bulk you can have them go different directions and then I’m going to feed my fabric or start my seam ahead of this point again I’m going to start at an angle and then I’m gonna turn it then when I get to the end I’m going to overlap about an inch and then turn it out and that way I’ve created the curve again this is when you’re going to turn it inside out or excuse me turn it right side out double-check make sure that you didn’t catch anything and that you didn’t get any puckers on your knit cuffs this ends the first section of the sweatshirt assembly for FDA 54 next section we’ll be going over the zipper application the ribbed hem and the sweatshirt assembly thank you you