HOW TO PROFESSIONALLY WINTERIZE A PERSONAL WATERCRAFT JETSKI ENGINE

today we’re going to winterize a four-stroke sea-doo personal watercraft start with taking the seats off inspect fluids coal level dipstick check the engine oil she’s full our first step in winterization is to stabilise the fuel the cedars carry about 16 16 gallons of fuel so we’ll put about an ounce and a half of stabilizer in we install the cap close the lid we will now flush the unit with fresh water hooking up our flushing attachment to the proper location very important do not start the water until you have the engine running install the safety lanyard start the engine turn on the water make sure you have a good flow of water coming out the exhaust and the jet pump also at this time we will hook up our communication cable diagnostic port is right here disconnected our computer late cable on come over to the computer will read the data check customers name that’s correct check the hours as 19 hours on it will at this time reset the service hours check the unit for faults this unit has none at this time we click over to monitoring and check our engines for proper intake temperatures exhaust temperatures and this is your engine temperature battery voltage at this time we’ll also perform a cylinder drop test you’ll hear slight change in the engine when I push the button on the 1 cylinder 2 and so on the 3 during our winterization we’ll want to get this engine up to about 150 degrees Fahrenheit for good oil law removal will ever run a few more minutes as you can see now we’re reaching 150 degree margin here little deals will turn the water off first let’s connect our hose and since we hooked up the computer I can shut it down by computer we will write the data into the computer on jet ski now I have to remove the safety lanyard and wait for a message to disappear okay plug back in one more time just to make sure all the gauges are working properly everything seems to be in order now we can disconnect our compete computer link reinstall the port and its holder okay now we’ve got the engine up down up the temperature will remove the seat bridge then we’ll proceed with an oil change remove the four bolts top half of the bridge and the bottom air-intake and now we have complete access to the engine once again we’ll pour dipstick out and check oil level right where it should be as a detective cover gives us access to the top the engine spark plugs dipstick oil filter oil fill on all the four strokes we will remove the oil through the dipstick with a vacuum device first we’ll undo the bolt securing the oil filter cover okay for we’ll have some oil on it and then the cover itself and the oil filter just set it like that so she drains down a little bit I’ll get boil all over the letter now will suck the oil out of the motor you and a normal little change will get about three quarts of oil out of the motor our oils on this all going down will remove the little filter there’s a small amount of oil in cartridge here vacuum that out of there now we’ll install our new oil filter that simply drops down into the canister the lower

oring on the oil cover remove that this guard and install a new one fine cutting of oil on the o-ring and she’ll go right back where she came from make sure you get it in there the fill drop it right in reinstall your bolt and tighten this is a Torx socket and get many auto parts store or mine’s a snap-on whip up any oil and now we’re ready to add fresh oil to the engine remove will fill cap and your funnel and as I said before will be about three quarts we are using c2 XPS 10 w 40 mineral based oil this is a PRP product always check your owners manual make sure you use the proper oil well pour it in slow because it will spit back at you on the third I don’t put the full cord in one check my oil level before I top it off so for about three quarters in and we’re right on the full line but that will drop down after we started off our little change is basically done now what we’ll do we’ll hook it up to antifreeze and we’ll flush the engine with antifreeze that will go through the exhaust system so that no water is left inside so we’ll be good for winterization we use nontox candy fries RV antifreeze we’ll do this the same fashion as we did when we flushed it with fresh water we hook our hose off and we’ll start the engine we want to have a nice good pink flow coming up with the exhaust and the jet bomb between three and four gallons of antifreeze to the engine depending on the model that’s ability from the pain free fall then we’ll turn the engine off this time we will wrap it up just a little bit just to expel any extra water or antifreeze out of the exhaust system now we’ll recheck our oil level again it should drop down just a little bit and then it looks pretty good don’t forget to reinstall your oil fill cap it will make a mess if you don’t take our flushing adapter out of the back now we’re ready to do a compression test a 5/8 socket spark plug socket our adapter and then our compression gauge with a Quick Connect fitting to remove the spark plugs we first have to remove the coils they’re located here on the top of the engine disconnect our leads going to making sure not to lose the little rubber bushing inside there that’s a water seal there’s one on each one so it won’t be careful you do not lose them next we will remove the coils individual coils for each cylinder they simply come right up and the spark plugs are still in the cylinder next we remove spark plugs I first loosen them and as we pull the spark plugs out we will inspect them make sure they look right there’s no foreign debris on them as you can see this one looks great nice color to it number two it’s identical to the first one and number three identical to the first two now we’ll perform a compression test take our adaptor screw it into the spark plug hole take our compression tester connect it on the seat is they have a mode called ground engine mode squeeze the throttle full that way the engine will not attempt to turn over will not inject fuel and will not activate the spark plugs or the wires going to the coils so now we’re safe to perform our compression test here we go this motor has good compression on this hole it’s about 195 pounds right where it should be it’s our gauge and move on to the next one once again squeeze the throttle we’re stop start button and watch the

game and we’ll do the third and final cylinder now it’s okay to have a small variance about ten percent between the three cylinders that’s acceptable then we’ll disconnect our lanyard stop the beeping and we can reinstall our spark plugs I’ll put them in hand tight first and then just little torque just get them tightened down you don’t need to overkill them no reason for that now we’ll reinstall the coil sex moves Bombardier lube on the cool sticks just to keep things lubricated here nice pop them right in reconnect our wires and we’re almost done with the engine side of it last thing to do now is to give the engine some fogging fluid and to do that we’ll remove the fuel injector rail there’s two bolts that hold the injector rail in carefully remove the injector rail until no debris falls in there and the o-rings are intact on the ends of the injectors here now we’ll take some engine store that’s a quick about a count of three to four one two three four and we’re shooting this right into the hole for the injectors where the injectors would be one two three four we’ll reinstall our fuel injectors put some Loctite on these screws reinstall our screws just snug them down then we’ll torque them always check your service manual for the proper torque specs on every screw on these will be 89 inch pounds so we’ll set our torque wrench now once again what we’ll do install the safety lanyard squeeze the throttle being drowned engine load injectors won’t fire the ignition coils will not spark but will turn the motor over and pass this bugging fluid through the engine and that’s all you need about five seconds of that passes it through we now have a proper amount of storage fluid through the engine the engines been antifreeze our next step will be to disconnect the battery won’t disconnect the air intake hose to gain access to the battery you always want disconnect to negative side first that’ll be the black wire and reinstall it a screw and the battery so you don’t lose it this is out of the way and reconnect your air intake hose now we’ll take our thumb Barty lubricant any corrosive lubricant and pretty much spray everything all metal components wire connectors wires themselves anything has a chance of corrosion so when you open up in the spring be nice and shiny okay particular attention to the throttle body and then work the throttle a couple times just for cover back on here reinstall our dipstick and we’re ready to put our seat bridge back in now we’re gonna test our antifreeze with an antifreeze hydrometer we’ll make sure it’s going to be the Averys going to protect the lowest temperature in your area simply insert the line and this antifreeze is good the ten below zero which is funny for around here reinstall our cap and that pretty much takes care of our engine end of winterization okay now we’re done with our engine side of it we’re go to the jet side for winterization needs here it

shorts we pull the jet pump out and inspect the wear ring the impeller and the grease that’s inside the new four-stroke pumps to do that we’ll start by undoing the hose clamp for the O past ‘m to run the top of the jet pump on the outlet nozzle and then lose our pick just to help get the hose off of the elbow and prior off next will endure shift cable this is on the port side then below that will be our Oh pass feign for the portside bring it over and we’ll do the opening with a starboard side now we’ve got both other pants mains disconnected we’ll disconnect our steering cable these are all 10 millimeter nuts and bolts that makes very easy and now our steering cable is disconnected now we can remove the steering nozzle and reverse bucket as one assembly and the steering √∂zil will come off in our hand at this time we can inspect the inside of the steering nozzle here’s your screen right here for the other pass system to prevents the brain sand going into the copious means well check that it looks pretty good our bolts look good everything looks good inside there place it off to the side now we can remove the jet home jet pump is also held in with four nuts on four studs careful there are four washers on there also pull the jet pump out we’ll take a look inside as we can see here we have somewhere on the wear ring this is what we’re looking for this is going to cause some running problems something’s going through the jet pump and we’ll probably call this customer and ask them if you want to put a new wear ring in it we’ll also inspect the drive shaft at this time which is right here the drive shaft stays in with on the four strokes and it looks good so that’s grease on it all the washers though rings are in place for cooling and Baelor fittings and then when you take a look at the intake break down through there make sure there’s no debris now we’ll take this over to the workbench we’ll pull the nose cone off bit this end and inspect the pump grease inside this is our pump this will hold our pump this is actually the impeller removal tool we’ll take the jet pump complete assembly drop it over top of the tool and spline it like it’s a nice stationary work workplace and those cone bolts are five millimeter metric take them out one at a time then watch there are washers on there go and lose any small parts we’ll take our air hose and blow some of this blow it away so we don’t contaminate our pump grease and we’ll pop the nose cone off it’s a pretty good suction fit so we get a little pry there with a pic and get a screwdriver slide it right in there nice and gentle and just sort of work this around and fry up a little bit as we go and that our nose cone comes right off in our hand so you can see the pump grease is in perfect condition Oh rings are intact we’ll check take a good look at the o-rings inside the pump here also grease inside the pump this pump looks good so at this point we can put the nose cone back on then we reinstall our screws again lock let your screws and we’ll Snug them down and then check the appropriate manual for the proper torque spec and consoled the proper manual found our torque spec on this model it’s 66 inch pounds okay now move pump from the fixture and grease our splines I’ll take my air nozzle air blowout this

is the water inlet side of the pump going to cool the exhaust system if there’s no debris in there and we’re ready to reinstall our pump what’s a good close look at your rubber o-ring around the left side of the pump make sure it’s not bent or kinked or anything like that because that could cause a running problem a cavitation problem on the back side we’re going to apply some 518 just to give us a good seal around between the pump and the steering nozzle now the pumps ready to go back in then carefully get to reach over the top of the pump and guide the drive shaft into the impeller and line up on the studs and then we’ll give it empowers the slight twist and get a spline in there she goes I’m going to make sure wishes end all the way all your washers and your nuts these two have nylon inserts on them so we’re going to have to use any type of thread Locker on and we’ll run them back in with the ratchet and we will do it in a crisscross pattern now we can reinstall our steering nozzle steering nozzle bolts are not nighloks the threads are not don’t have any type of loom them or plastic coating so we will put some Loctite on those and if you have the reverse gate down be careful it will bite you like a bear trap so it will be carefully liner up then again do the crisscross pattern then last one okay three nozzles installed and reconnect our cables and Oh pass first do the steering make sure your bolts clean next to be good pass for this side and all these nuts have nylon item so they again they don’t need Loctite good and snug we’re over your other rope ass and now reverse okay finally hook up our hose for the O pass which is right here it’s going to go to our white elbow cutting off the jet pump that simply slides back over position our hose clamp and pull down inside so the water flows properly and snugger up white grease we’ll fly it to our steering cable on this side liberally and once again we’ll take our anti corrosive lubricant and spray everything all your moving parts nuts bolts housing later move it inside on either side of the pivots also this time will lubricate

our ladder and also our opus fames speedometer and this unions ready to go to bed for the win